Adventures in Healing

It has been a while. Halloooo

Let me catch you up. Back in January an offer was made on my house so I could finally close up those ties with my ex-wife. At the beginning of February I made an offer on a small two bedroom condo in Poulsbo. It is a really nice place and everyday I am grateful for the good people around me. There was trouble though since as a small business person the banks wouldn't give me a loan without a close family member co-signing. Thanks MOM! Yeah, I know, that seems silly. Though, I did get the place and after only five and a half weeks I was able to move in.

During the time of all this moving I had incurred an injury on my left forearm. I was the goalie at a soccer game and a wild elbow was thrown. I got a pretty bruise and it seemed to heal up and go away. The only problem was I started to have strange pains at random. I would be sitting reading and all the sudden my arm would just tighten up and "charlie horse." Not long after that I started to lose feeling in the last two fingers. I couldn't turn the knob on the door, pull on the handle to open the fridge, or lift anything. Climbing was on hold. I figured I could sit things out for a while and heal. My previous year climbing was stellar, and I was still able to play soccer and dance still. So all is good in my mind, except -- my arm wasn't healing. Even dancing was difficult (left handed leads.)

After almost 5 months, I finally went and got a Physical Therapy. Fortunately, this helped and I was able to start building muscle again in the arm. I got healed enough but was still very weak on the climbing walls. And then there would be another injury that would follow... again during soccer.

I got one day of climbing outside with a friend this season (so far.) We hiked the two and a half miles in to do Outer Space, in Leavenworth. The lineup for this popular climb was busy as we expected. We put down our packs and waited it out. At 11 o'clock we got to start our climb. We should have known it wasn't going to go well though when the prior two groups were telling us about their partners and lack of multi-pitch experience. But their partners were skilled enough, right? Right? WTF?!?

Long story short, we bailed after the second pitch when the clock clicked 3:00 PM. Hiking out the 2.5 wasn't bad... all down hill and since this was a day trip, we drove back to Seattle... climb unfinished. The following day I joined my co-ed soccer league for a match that went very well. We had lots of fun even though I was starting to feel the fatigue building in my legs. And then Tuesday.

Tuesday is the Men's B league. Our team was getting crushed (10-0 crushed.) In the second half, the ball was passed to me and in the break away it was me and the goalie. The goalie came out of the box and as he slid into me I chipped the ball up over him and into the goal. I gracefully jumped over the goalie to make sure the ball went in. I scored the lone goal for our team and was feeling really pumped and excited.

Two minutes left in the game, another break away to the far corner. My teammate gets the ball as I head to the top of the key (this is indoor soccer.) The pass isn't good, so I reach my foot out for the ball. I felt something go wrong. I thought I pulled my groin, and then I noticed it. My kneecap had move out of alignment. This is the fourth time in 20 years that I have done this, and the sad thing about it -- every single time has been when my legs have been tired and I didn't rest.

Lying in pain my kneecap displaced, I did my best to straighten my leg and put things back together. And now I would have another six weeks of healing... minimum.

I did go to the doctor. X-rays were taken. The doctor came in, looked at the knee and basically said, "Heal, if you start to do this often we need to do surgery. You know the drill." And now, I'm on my own. I have done this before but the hardest part this time, I have to know when I'm ready. Before I could wait until I was given the go-ahead. The good news is I'm healing fast. I'm starting week five and plan to go into the climbing gym for some traversing, and then over to the Y for some swimming. I'm on target, and maybe in a few more weeks I can try some running and soccer... or maybe I'll wait on the soccer a little longer. I'm excited to get back to my activities of skiing, climbing, dancing, soccer, etc, etc. I just need to remember, as my body ages my mind needs to be considerate and allow for rest and repair. Sometimes the hardest part is remembering without letting it hold me back. I may be getting older but that doesn't mean I have to stop the things I love... I just need to do them within the limits of this body.

Although, I still think someone needs to come up with a better knee.

Most Days

Hey. Long time. I wrote a post back in March and never published it. I guess I just didn't feel that much had been going on. Or maybe I had enough going on and it was more the mundane events that you all don't really need to know about... or more likely you just know instinctively.

Since my unpublished post Spring and Summer have happened and it has been a busy exciting and fun time. Back in April my good friends Amy and Paul and myself left for Spring Break. We did the drive to Vegas, and had a wonderful snow storm to drive through. Paul and Amy are unseasoned at the long haul drive and decided next year we are flying. Wimps.

It was a climbing trip and like most trips we climb, eat, and sleep. Tired from the drive and not able to check in to the hotel (yeah, we were roughing it) we started out doing some easy sport climbs at Cannibal Crag, and while the climbing is awesome I think most of us were distracted by the lingerie shoot going on behind us. I'd post the pictures but really it was more a distraction. We climbed just a few routes and were glad when the hours rolled towards our check in time.

We went to the Strip, which was my first time, and enjoyed being tourist for a while. And then we caught up on much needed sleep. The next morning was nice and we climbed for a bit until the wind picked up. The day cut a bit short we headed back to the Strip and found more trouble. Of course, the following day would become a forced rest day and our plan for adventure drew us to the Adventure Dome. This is an indoor theme park and we had fun... until the "4D" ride totally bugged me out. I was fine flipping upside down, being swung around in circles, but the video and shaking....brruupt.

And then it was back to our climbing adventure. We spent a day of "everyone leads" at Panty Wall, and a day on Solar Slab, and a final day with just a few climbs back at Cannibal Crag before heading home. No big adventure, but lots of fun none-the-less.

Following the return home, I'm sure I did a few days of skiing, but not enough of it. I wish I'd kept up with skiing one day of each month but regular life does happen. Summer came on quickly and there was lots of whining about the rain. I managed to play soccer twice a week. And dancing once a week.

The dancing has been quite fun but as the summer heat came on I put it on hold... I'll be going back to it in September. I have become a pretty good lead in West Coast Swing, and I do alright with the other dance steps. I think my favorites are the swings, but I'd like to get better at the waltz and foxtrot.

On the climbing topic, I got to tick off a few climbs on my list. One was to climb Deidre in Squamish -- I've been trying to get to it for the last three years. I actually did it twice this year, once swapping leads and once leading the whole thing. I went back and led Master Of My Domain, and I even added a few climbs I had never before led to my list. I also got to zipline, which wasn't as much thrilling as just fun. And I also got to water ski for the first time in probably twenty years. I got up but the waters were rugged so I didn't do any fancy turns. Next year.

I have my sights set on a few more immediate things for now. Keep your fingers crossed that I'm successful... I'd appreciate it if you would anyway.

Stay with Me!

I sit in anticipation of events my week holds. Skiing will come with my preferred backcountry adventures awaiting my mark on the canvas of snow. Tonight a movie.

Today -- I was reviewing some other bloggers and their take on "fear." In particular the fear that comes with climbing, but I'm actually looking at fear from a different prospective. For me, in this case, it isn't limited to climbing.

I have been self employed for less than a year. I've been hanging on, and sticking to my work. However, some days the fear sets in and with that fear -- immobility. My brain doesn't get it, but my body instinctively wants to remain unmoved. My brain is saying... "You can do it!" "Go, Chris, Go!" "You've done harder, this will be a breeze." My body shudders a bit and finds a snuggle with my dog, or desires to crawl back into bed, or puts on the tube to distract from my brains encouragement.

Even now, I sit and write this blog instead of taking on my project. My project is laid out before me. I will write though, entrench my brain on the task of not just understanding this fear, but what path I should use to overcome it.

My project remains unattended.

I sit here now the only problem before me... I can only go forward. So you're wondering, why aren't you working on your project and instead writing a blog? Two reasons a) I haven't done a blog update in a long time(yes I get the irony,) and 2) in my head, I'm standing midway up the first pitch of Ewephoric on the Sheeps Head in Cochise.

I yelled down to my climbing partner Brigette, "I don't think I can do this." She didn't respond. Or maybe she did. I don't recall. I plugged a piece of gear into the wall, this wide smooth handholdless monster. I stood there for a long time. I had a conversation with my self.

selfdoubt: "Downclimb?"
me: "No."
selfdoubt: "You only have one other choice, you get that don't you?"
me: "No, I have two other choices."
selfdoubt: "Two other choices? Really? Besides going down? You're so full of shit."
me: "Yes, two other choices besides going down. I can go up, that would be a good choice. Or I can also just stand here until a rescue party comes."
selfdoubt: "Dumbass."
me: "So how do you think I should go up then?"
selfdoubt: "You're probably right, just stand there until the rescue party comes."
me: "Great. Well, I can at least move up to that ledge there."
selfdoubt: "Then what, you can see there is no way to protect there."
me: "Well, I'll just take the next obvious step."
selfdoubt: "Dumbass."

I moved up the rock. A scene from Gladiator moved through my head and I hear the words of Maximus: "Three weeks from now...Imagine where you will be, and it will be so. Hold the line! Stay with me! If you find yourself alone, riding in the green fields with the sun on your face, do not be troubled. For you are in Elysium, and you're already dead!"

In the movie the soldiers all laugh. I didn't laugh, I was already alone. I had moved up to that next ledge, and recalled that the party before us had another piece in the rock above me before reaching the one bolt on the entire first pitch. I didn't like the way that looked. I stepped out of the runnel crack thing I was in, and just slab face climbed my way to the bolt. A good choice in hindsight, but scary. I reached the bolt, clipped, the climb was pretty much over... one pitch down, only four pitches to go. And no, I won't tell you how far it was from my last gear placement to the bolt.

I know how to conquer my fear. The problem isn't conquering it. The problem is I'm not ready for Elysium. It is easy to step out and let the current carry you. You might get bumped along the way, scrapped up, maybe even broken a bit. Those who don't let go will cheer you and give you hero status or poo-poo you because they didn't have the courage. They will call you mentor, roll model, inspiration, crazy, moron, idiot. How brave of you! How stupid! And yet, all you did was let go in the moment, and let it wash over you. Somehow even when I embrace that fear and accept immobility I eventually let go. Okay, I don't know how to conquer my fear, I just accept it.

I'm encouraged to move; be physical. This morning I woke with my dog to let her water the grass and then filled her tummy with breakfast. Often I choose to crawl back into my warm sheets and sleep another 15 or 30 minutes, an hour. I started washing the dishes. Be mobile. I can do that; that isn't what is holding me back. I can do the physical. This is emotional. This is mental. I have the means, I'm intelligent, I have the plan, I have the resources, I have everything I need. And somehow I am fighting against this immobility, I fight against Elysium.

That's the story... I guess it is time to let go. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Making it on my own

I've been a bit lax on doing a blog update. I have been a bit lax on taking pictures too. The month of June was a big month for me. I worked 43 hours and during my free time I was out running, climbing, swimming, hiking and generally enjoying the people I have been meeting.

Feeling a bit jealous that I only worked 43 hours? Don't be. This is part of me making it on my own. I have made a decision to pare down my life so I have more hours to enjoy it. I make a lot less money, I am dependent on myself, I pay my own medical insurances... I worry still about the next day, week, and month will bring.

Although, Like most people I spent a majority of my younger employed years working 50+ hours a week. And in return I got laid off, I suffered personal vendettas, I dealt with sociopaths and narcissists, I got fired for insubordination, I worked 14 hour days 7 days a week with promised rewards I never received, I saw policies made that only impacted me because I wouldn't allow myself to be taken advantage by the business. I've seen and experienced a lot of really bad stuff. Things that no one should have to go through, and yet -- why are you still taking that treatment from your job you "love?"

Wait! Maybe you should be jealous. As my own business owner I have made my own company policies. #1 I will never take advantage of another person whether they are my employee, or my client. #2 I will never let an employee or client take advantage of me. If I don't like the conditions, I get to change them. I can, and need to be reasonable, of course. Yet -- my choices impact me directly. I don't live on the whim of someone who has been made my "boss" and doesn't really have the leadership skills, or personal skills in the first place. On top of that, I get to also make my own Holiday schedule. I get all the banking holidays off. Unless I want to work them. I take the two weeks around the Christmas Holiday off -- does any work really get done at this time? I also decided I get four additional weeks off during the year. The plan -- take a full month off each year (we'll see how that works out.)

Yes, when I take time off, I don't get money. This is true. At the same time -- I get to live a fuller life than I had before. So here I am out making it on my own...

As I said, June was a big month, but July... big in other ways. I started the month with 6 days in Squamish B.C. The first two were bouldering by myself and those I met in the Grand Wall Forest.

I'm not a good boulder. I'm just not. I can do V2, just not most V2's. I can do V1, just not all V1's, and I can do V0. I've attempted a couple V3, and V4's, but really it takes some nerve to fall. On the 5th day out, I was bouldering with my good friends Jason and Rhiannon, and we did some bouldering in an area that doesn't get much attention. I was on what felt like a high problem... My feet were probably 6 feet off the ground or less. I was getting nervous, and Jason just gave me a quick tap on the hip. I realized I wasn't that far. I made the final big move, the one before finessing your way over the top, and I slipped. My hands pulling off moss and pine needles. And I landed safely. I have to go back and complete this problem -- it was day five after all and my arms and elbows were very tired. Still, I tried to work through that final finessing a few more times... I had to walk away defeated -- but I can go back.

I also had one of my best days out climbing ever. I top roped the whole day, but I climbed at my peak. It was day three for me, and I was with Jason and Rhiannon again. We warmed up on a 5.9, then followed that with 10d, 10c, 10c, 10b, 5.7. It doesn't seem like much when I write it down, but at the same time... it was a great day of climbing. I'm still living through those climbs. I'm excited to go back and do them again. I'm excited that I'm doing 10d on top rope outside (it just isn't the same inside.)

The fourth day of climbing was pretty quiet. The air was warm, and I was tired. I did a few climbs 5.7, 5.9, 5.6, and then went swimming. It was refreshing and nice to get the grim off of me.

I'm now preparing for a nice 2.5 week trip for the end of July. I'm heading down to meet some friends in Reno, and to do some climbing in Tahoe. I don't know what I'll climb, but I'm also bringing a bouldering pad. It should be fun. I'll stay there for about a week and then head south to Tuolumne where my cousin is a SAR (Search and Rescue). I got my SuperTopo Toulumne Bouldering guide, a pad, gear (if I have a partner) and just some relaxing in the meadow.

I'm debating if I want to drop down to Red Rocks (what am I thinking, 100 degrees?) and then up through Utah, or out to Denver. I'm not sure. Depends if I get bored or not. If I find a partner for the whole trip that would be nice. Guess I should put the call out.

I hope all you out there are enjoying your summer. I will be bringing my camera along for this next trip and I will take pictures. I will try to put updates along the way...

As my good friend Dave would say, "Peace, Love beads, and Macrame." Maybe he says "Peas, Love, Beads, and Macrame." Hmmm... I'll get back to you on that.

H2snOw

My weekend started with a Wedding. I actually wasn't invited to the wedding. I was invited to the reception though, and really that is where all the fun is to be had. I was glad to be in attendance. Of course, it was also a bit awkward. Just a year ago my marriage ended, and here my good friend is moving her relationship to the next obvious step. I cannot help but feel a little self pity. My horoscope for Friday said to end it with a romantic kiss. I didn't think it ended with a romantic kiss until someone pointed out "Not for you anyway, but certainly for the bride and groom." All in all, I did get to dance with the bride-- What a great way to start a weekend!

Saturday morning, I casually got out of bed, finished packing the car with my gear and picked up Mack in Silverdale. Mack has become one of my regulars to be outside with and this has been great for moving up my experiences. We left and met up with Jay, a really nice new addition to the crew. Also, he gets props for stamina and solid skiing technique.

We arrived at the base of Mount Adams about 4:30 PM and unloaded the gear to packed up for the hike to 5,600 feet. Only a 1,400 foot gain the first day, but it would give us an easy start right from the tree line, and we wouldn't have to wake up early.

With Mack's Jetboil we heated water and I realized that dehydrated noodles were not enough to sustain. I was the noobie out there and was okay with it. I had water, and cliff bars, and I had a place to sleep warm through the night. I'd be okay. Still, I was thinking that I should have carried more meal like food. I was even offered extras from my cohorts, but I guess I would learn this lesson the hard way.

I was the first to crash out, and there was some talk about pictures of the full moon. The next thing I knew Mack's alarm was going off. The mountain was warm, and I didn't fret about getting dressed. Of course, I did sleep in enough clothing that I was plenty warm. I love my bivy... so nice.

Oatmeal and a Luna bar for breakfast, chugged some tea, and back to skinning up the hill. It became apparent I was going to be the slow one in the group. I trudged along and the thin air took its toll from my body. Mack had ski crampons and so zipped through the frozen crust seemingly without effort. Jay and I got to the first steep slope and when I saw Jay sit to put boot crampons on, I did the same. I was clumbsy, and without technique but I managed and made my first steps up the slope.

At first, it wasn't a big deal, I took one step at a time. Then I hit the steep stuff. It looked like a shear wall too me. It was probably 65 degrees, maybe more steep. I eventually caught up and Mack who already had 45 minutes to rest. He was ready to go again. I trudged along, and soon realized I was going to have to let these guys go ahead, and I would make my way up alone. I would go for Piker's Peak, and they would make the Adam's summit.

Mack and Jay waited for me a second time at the Lunch Table. There questions were thrown at me. Did I have a headache, was I gasping for breath, was I dizzy? No. Kind of, but not really. No. I found that I could take five or ten steps but then I had to rest. That was my progress. I kept going. At this rest, I pushed down a Cliff bar and a sandwich, drank lots of water, put on sunscreen, and decided my skis were to heavy to carry any further. The sun had softened the snow crust just enough that walking in crampons was becoming difficult and the slope was low enough that I could skin again. I made the swap and started to move much quicker up the hill. Mack and Jay were long gone, and I couldn't identify them among the others on the hill.

The last 2K to Piker's Peak seemed very long. The clouds moved in, and visibility was very limited. Rocks on the left and right. It made sense to traverse between those points and keep going up. At one point I saw another guy putting his skis on to take an early ride home. I was tempted to do the same. I kept taking my steps forward. In the clouds people were glissading down from the Piker's and I wouldn't see them until they were just a short bit away. Apparently, Piker's Peak is were most people stopped. Only a handful of people would make the final ascent to Adams Summit. More temptation to send me back down the mountain.

The sun broke and showed My summit to me. Or maybe I just ascended high enough to be above the clouds? It looked so far, and so steep. A rock pile along the way would be my goal. And then another pile of rocks would be the next goal. I continued my traverse on skins until my progress was hindered by the step forward slide down. I plunked my butt into the hill side, and put the crampons back on. My left leg cramped up -- that glissade line was just right there, it would have been so easy to just ride it down.

With my skis on my back, my poles in hand, and crampons on my boots I turned into the hill. I took a big kick, probably with more energy than I had to spare, plunging my toe into the face I was about to climb. Nineteen more times and then I could rest. I would make it my goal to take twenty steps at a time straight up the hill before I could rest.

My guess, I had 300 more steps which meant 15 points I could rest. The sun warmed me enough that I found energy to keep going. People would glissade past me or ski past and say things like "It's worth the pain, you're so close" and "Sweet turns ahead!" All I could do was think about the runners wall. You know where you try to move forward but your body rejects your mental request? I would struggle to actually lift my foot at times. Sweat was freezing in my beanie, and my breath was crystalizing on my glasses. I would agree to rest a little bit longer but I wasn't going to compromise the twenty step goal.

I finally go to that point were you can feel the slope decrease and the walking becomes easy. I think I started to hurry and found that I was there. Or at least, I was at my "there." I would go no further up this mountain. I dropped my pack, pulled off my beanie, loosened my boots, pulled out the puffy to keep what little warmth I had gained, and found a nice rock to lounge in until Mack and Jay would return from the Summit.

I wasn't there more than ten minutes when I ran out of water, and all my food was gone. I watched a guy ski off the summit to another point fifty yards away. I finally realized it was Mack. I waved, and he yelled back to confirm he saw me. I had my feet up relaxing, my knee throbbing. Mack would have to walk back to me. Or he'd have to wait until my body would agree with my brain to get up and move again.

I was glad Mack had arrived so soon, I took some of his water, and some Shot Blocks -- Oh so refreshing! And I took a VitD and two Aleve for my knee. We chatted for a good 30 or 40 minutes before Jay would show up. Jay ate his lunch at the Summit after laying out on his sleeping pad that he carried the whole way.

Jay would take a picture of each of us at Piker's, and then we made our way back down the hill. We'd also gain a forth to our crew, Michael, who just days before had summitted and skied down Mt. Rainier. Our turns were swift, and it was probably 40 minutes of skiing before we got back to camp. The fog along the way was trouble, and we managed to even separate and find our way back together. Michael would leave us to continue down the hill while we rested and packed up our camp. Mack made some tea and we did the final pickup of our things.

Packs full we did the final 1400 feet pretty quickly. I'm not sure how I did it, my legs were so tired, my knee ached. My body just floated through the turns paid out before me. And then dirt. Jay would put his tennies back on and haul his boots and skis on his pack. I decided the pack was heavy enough without my boots, and I think it was a smart choice for me. I made the final trek to the car pretty quickly, and found Mack changing into other clothing. I unlocked the car, and started to remove all the wet stinky clothing. And when Jay arrived -- BEER!

Hydrated, and some gushers to take the edge off it was time to go home. Our trip a success. I had done my first true alpine ascent of a mountain. I didn't make the Summit, but now I have something to look forward to achieving. I did climb from 4,200 feet to 11,600 feet. What an amazing feeling. I want to jump up and brag, even though I know so many people went further, and so many people have achieved the same goal. Oh wait, that is what this blog is about... bragging and to remind me of why I'm doing all of it.

That's a Problem

Nope, it just isn't right.  My thoughts were not complete.  I wasn't willing to say what I wanted to say... After some discussion, and the fact that I'm awake at 4 AM to remove this post -- I will rework my thoughts and find the courage to write clearly what I intended, or find something else to say.

Quick Hit -- Thank you, Access Fund!

I just wanted to put a thank you out to the Access Fund. The other week I posted a video of the port-a-can's at the Frenchman Coulee Climbing area. When I returned for climbing last weekend, the port-a-cans had been removed. I don't know if my video had any impact, but I'm truly grateful to know that these items are no longer a blight on this climbing area. Of course, I was never certain the Access Fund was the group providing the port-a-cans, it was only my impression, but non-the-less I targeted them so my thanks and appreciation will also target them. I wish that this climbing area had the respect of non-climbers and there was a way to provide a climber/public potty. For now, climbers will just have to carry out their waste. Not a bad practice to get in the habit of doing. Again, Thank you, Access Fund!

Climbing @ Frenchman Coulee

Tuesday, instead of working, I headed out to Eastern Washington with my friend Laura for a day of climbing. The weather looked horrible. I woke early and made my way to Seattle, the rain was dumping and the thought to carry my ski gear didn't cross my mind. I wanted to climb. I'm going to climb!

I got to Laura's about 7 o'clock and we moved my gear to her car. She made me a quick egg salad sandwich and we were on our way. We didn't even put on music as we talked the whole way across the mountains. The rain didn't stop until about Ellensburg where we could finally see some blue sky breaking through the clouds. Chances of climbing didn't look good but we were still optimistic.

When we arrived we could see the ground was still wet and the rock was not the driest it could be. Oh well, what are are you going to do, the sun is out... lets chill in the rays and wait for the walls to dry. In the camp ground below, an all girls school was on a field trip learning to be empowered... I guess. Lots of squawking for certain. Sorry, I shouldn't make fun of young impressionable girls... yep, lots of squawking.

We talked with a few of their guides and counselors. An amazing group of women... these young girls were in very good hands. They scoped out plans to take over the Feathers climbing area, so we planned to get up a few routes before they finished their belay safety.

The sun dried a couple of routes pretty quickly, so I was on lead for the day. Laura is a more experienced climber than me, but she's been injured and her head isn't ready to take on that challenge... yet. I can feel her just waiting to take the sharp end though.

We started a few short and easy warm up runs. Surprisingly, it wasn't so easy. I sagged the first lead, but I decided to go back and re-climb it clean. It was my first lead since October of last year. I hadn't even lead in the gym since then. I guess it is time to get a gym rope and start practicing. Aside my lack of leading skill, the sun was warming our backs and the walls were drying out more. I sagged a lot this day, but I never totally freaked out and never was out of my skill range. I need to get my head focused for a longer climb. I'll take the sags though. Some would say it wasn't a good climb... I say it was 5.FUN! (Yeah, Laura, I stole that from you...)

Eventually, after a few climbs each and a snack, we made our way over to Sunshine wall. The sun became less pronounced and more clouded. You can see from the picture that the sun was cloud dodging most of the day. At Sunshine Wall we mostly scoped out the climbs and got in one more long pitch up Clip'em or Skip'em. It was probably the hardest 5.8 I have ever done. Not because it wasn't a 5.8, but the bolt placements sucked. Seriously, if I were a braver man, I would have skipped a few bolts. And the top out was naked... I was able to balance my way up, but it was still difficult. Laura thinks she found the hold that I missed that was bomber, and I just made it harder than it needed to be... Big surprise there. Where are my taped holds? Way too much time in the gym.

Back at the car I decided to make a little video. At the Frenchmen Coulee climbing area there are a couple of sani-cans or port-a-potty (what ever you want to call them) with a long history of neglect and abuse. On our visit the cans were in no condition to be used. They clearly hadn't been serviced in a very long time, and had become a place to dump garbage. These cans come as a courtesy of the Access Fund. Or so I am lead to believe. I apologize if I am mistaken and will gladly make a correction both here and in the video below. However, I feel it must be addressed in some form. First, if these cans are provided from any of our beloved climbing communities that we all rely on to help make climbing available, it is important for them to leave a good impression. These toilets are disgusting. Second, if these toilets were once provided as a service and are no longer... it is unacceptable to leave them unattended in the climbing and camping area. Have I mentioned that these toilets are disgusting? Third, and finally, I'm not here to abuse my beloved Access Fund as I love my t-shirt, and other gear they provided when I was given this a gift a couple years ago, and I continue to maintain my membership. I love what you provide, inspire, and help make available. Someone -- PLEASE -- prove me wrong. This is just sad.

[ The Video was removed, and so were these port-a-potties. Thank you to whomever responded and made the change! ]

The Anticipation.

I'm sitting at my kitchen table. The world before me is forcing me into decisions. I don't want to make a decision. I want to sit here and read my favorite blogs, and listen to my favorite podcasts. There are opportunities before me but they aren't the opportunities I want or need. My needs are screaming at me. It is time to go.

Tomorrow morning, I head up to Hurricane Ridge. Got my shovel, probe, pack, boots, poles, skis and skins... Do I need an avalung? Nah, I'm already borrowing a transceiver. Heard the snow is great. The Ridge just got a another dump of snow. At a mile up I can wave to Mom and family in Denver. Hope I don't freeze... Layer, layer, layer.

No, I won't forget the camera. This time the battery is charged... I better go double check that. I hear the views are great. I cannot remember the last time I was at the Ridge... I don't think I have ever skied there... though it is hard to say. Anyway I look at it, the adventure will be something to remember.

The crew tomorrow all have much more recent backcountry skiing, so we are going to play in the snow pack and do some avalanche tests, and practice with the transceivers. And then it is all skiing. For me, skinning up is a lot like racking up for a climb. There is an anticipation and excitement, a bit of self consciousness, a bit of fear, and a touch of self doubt too. The funny thing about all those things, I know that ultimately I will come out alright. It isn't about an adrenaline rush for me. It is about that moment when my tunes fad from my awareness, and my heartbeat picks up, my thoughts clear and I think about the next turn, the next hold, the next breath. Yeah, I too sometimes forget to breath.

I couldn't sit at the table all day, so I met up with my friend for some gym climbing. The gym has some pretty good climbs up lately. The only problem... I've been training so much that I'm basically repeating the same climbs. It is okay... I'm having fun. I'm smiling. I need to go to bed... Got to get up early. I'll be back here soon with some pictures and a trip report. If you want hear about it.

G'night, and sweet dreams of your next adventure!

Moving into Life

I am currently on a short sabbatical from work. A little mental health recovery. I seem to need more these days. Some people might understand, others might tell me to suck it up. Right now? Won't do it. There is something else driving me. Call it a mid-life crisis. I deserve to have one. You've heard my story... it's a fricken country song. I lost my dad, I lost my wife, and my dog ran away. Well, my dog didn't run away, but I have to share her with the ex-wife. I think Hana is worth it.

In the meantime I'm trying to figure out how to make balance of the situation. This weekend was not balanced. It was pure fun and good times. Last Friday, I met up with someone I hadn't seen in 27 years. We had a blast with good conversation, lots of laughs, and a few really bad jokes. The story of Tara and I is kind of weird because quite frankly, I don't remember her. I am glad though to have established a connection with her. She's an amazing person... I like having those type of people around me.

I followed up Friday with Wine Night. A group of friends get together and drink lots of wine and eat good food. It was so much fun, and I brought my good friend Laura as requested. The usual conversations came up and the kid competitions were had and laughed at... All the kids are wonderful, cute, sweet, terrors. I actually find these kid stories to be too hilarious. These people are good loving and caring people. I'm thankful for them every day. Thanks guys for taking good care of me!

Laura and I had plans to go skiing so the following morning we rolled out of my drive way and made our way to Crystal Mountain. Sunday and Monday were days filled with skiing. The unfortunate part was I forgot to charge my camera battery and Laura got just a couple of pictures before the batteries on her camera bailed. The usual hold the camera at arms length and smile. Laura took the one of me above... I think I need to eat a sandwich...

The best part for me was on Sunday, Laura and I put on our skins, plugged in our iPod head phones and trekked up the trail. At some point I took the lead, maybe two miles in or so, and we came into a clearing. Just a bit of snow was falling and I stopped to look back at the view. There was Laura, with her tongue sticking out to catch snowflakes. What-a-dork. This moment though reminds me of how important it is to keep moving into life. Laura has been a bit of a life coach -- though she probably wouldn't agree. I find her to be brave, and often beyond description. That doesn't mean she's "perfect" it just means she is doing what she can to find her way into the life she desires -- and she does it with out stomping on other people to get there. So much learning to be done.

After two days of skiing, I pushed my body a bit further, I went climbing with my friend Amy, and then played soccer later that evening. I pushed my body, and asked it for a bit more. I also respected the limitations, sore muscles, and now am providing rest. I watched a movie. Worked on this blog. Now, I think I'm going to find a burger and some parts to fix a leaky faucet.

Hard work deserves reward. So this is how I'm moving into life. Maybe a bit more selfish or maybe just finding ways to balance what I give of myself. I know that I give without expectations, but when taken advantage of I turn off all support and extras. This brings me to another thought -- I love the work I do.

I have been doing computer things for as long as I could wrap my brain around the concepts. I'd do it even if I wasn't paid. I feel lucky that I have a career that I love. Yet, even as much as I love what I do, I don't want to be tied to the concept of corporate slavery. That seems to be the modus operandi though eh? The -- You do as I say or I will make your life hell -- mentality that I know we've all seen and experienced. I don't share it. I want something more from my corporation. If a corporation is going to have person rights, then they should also have a heart and soul. When the body complains there might be good reason.

So as you move into life remember to say "Thank you," and "You're Welcome." Be appreciative of people who do a bit extra, and don't take advantage of those that give of themselves.

Onward Ho! No -- I'm not calling you a Ho.

10 Best Moments in Life So Far ...

This post was written because WasatchGirl pondered the question on her way to Arkansas.

In no particular order ...

*) 1973 -- I was born... I don't remember it at all, but I am certain it qualifies as one of the best moments in my life.

*) 5 years ago, approximately, I had dislocated my patella after my dog, Hana, had dived at a ball near my foot. Now this wasn't a great moment, but during the recovery my doctor said that I should get out and hike and climb over uneven terrain. I was staying at a friends in West Seattle while my wife was in her first year of law school. I had picked up Climbing magazine and it had Steph Davis on the cover. I read her article and the next thing I knew I was signing up to take the intro to climbing at REI. Afterwards I was hooked. I bought shoes, harness, and started climbing at the local gym. This changed my life more than I could have ever imagined. My doctor asked me what I was doing for exercises, and when I told him I started rock climbing his jaw just about hit the floor... uneven terrain, not vertical terrain!

*) In 2005 (I think) my mom decided to move to Denver to be near the grandchildren. I had two weeks off from work. After dropping Mom off we continued to Santa Fe, the Grand Canyon, Moab, SLC, Spokane. Camped and climbed. I saw many places I had never seen. My favorite was Moab and the Arches... Experiencing this in person was too amazing. It was a defining moment in my life... I realized that I wanted more out of life than simply working. As if climbing hadn't already convinced me of that, seeing all the National Parks solidified it for me.

*) Joshua Tree 2006 -- A group of friends did a winter trip just before Christmas. We drove all night and when we arrived early in the morning I could barely drive because of the beauty of this place. This was my first real trad experience climbing. I had bought some gear but I didn't know how to use it. I had read the books and had much to learn. I didn't lead even once. I wanted to lead but didn't have courage back then, or the skill. It was a moment though that I realized I could do more and it reaffirmed my desire to work on living for the now.

*) Road Trip 2008 -- Spent two weeks at the beginning of September in City of Rocks, Denver, and Yosemite. It was a difficult time in my life, as my father had passed away, my wife had left me, and I couldn't even cope with my job. I was learning a lot about myself, I was doing my first solo trip ever at 35 years of age. The most interesting part for me was that I realized I'm a really good person. I like who I am, I'm happy with my life despite the hard times. I found my way and realized I wasn't ever lost. I just wasn't looking ahead... I was looking behind me.

*) Maui -- the second and last time I visited Hawaii. I had just been fired for insubordination. I had reported my superior to HR and the next day I was let go. The best part was my wife at the time had just finished finals. We decided to just take off. We lounged on the beached, and I swam with the turtles. We did a luau and enjoyed the sun and sands. Does life get any better than when you drop everything to enjoy life?

*) Kauai -- the first time I ever visited Hawaii. Washington was having one of the greyest years I could ever remember, and everyone was suffering from depression. A decision was made to visit Hawaii. We stayed at a wonderful resort in Poipu and lived resort life for a week. It was really our Honeymoon but by this time we'd been married almost 5 years. Still -- it was memorable and definitely a best moment.

*) 1987 I was ranked in the top ten in the nation as a swimmer. I was 14 years old and one of the best swimmers in the nation. I had coaches struggling to get me to become an Olympic super star. My Freshman and Sophomore years I was set to be a State Champ. In the years that followed my national rankings I learned that I swam because it was fun, not because I was good. I had a situation that required me to make a decision. It was a choice to continue swimming and performing or quit. I quit. My sophomore year I was set to break records, and I quit. I didn't swim my Junior year. I returned later after a coach came and apologized to me... I said I would return but on my conditions. I was a Senior and had made the team in the spirit of fun. We had two relay teams that made state, I stood on the Podium for our 1st place relay. We broke records, and when all was said and done... so was I. Swimming was a very long moment in my life, but definitely one of the best.

*) I graduated from college with a degree in computer science. At the age of 7 I knew I wanted to work with computers. I remember my friends father bringing home an Osborne "portable" computer. This set me in motion to find anyway to make sure I would work with computers. I wasn't a good student. In fact I was a poor student, but I wasn't dumb... I just didn't fit in the education system. I managed to graduate and now work with computers every day, and probably more than I should... but I love them... computers entertain my brain and I enjoy watching the evolution of technology.

*) September 27, 1998 was probably the best moment in my life. I married my girlfriend of two and a half years. Unfortunately it wasn't meant to last, but it is something I look back on fondly. We'd just bought our house -- my girl wanted to be married in her own home -- we had our parents and grandparents and siblings over to the house and we were married in our living room. Our house didn't have furniture or a table, I think we still had my old waterbed and barely enough of anything to fit in a single room. We had a party at a community center that held 99 people. We invited 120 of our closest friends and family, and only about 65 people RSVP'd. All the rules said that expect 60% of those who RSVP. We had to stop counting because more people showed up than expected. We ran out of food and cake, but we had plenty of Champagne!

On to better things...

Many of you know that this last year and a half has been pretty hard on me. My father died at the end of 2007 which was extremely difficult.  My wife of 10 years left me six months later. My divorce was finalized back in October, and Dad's ashes were buried on a ski slope in Colorado over the holiday's.  We all suffered economic pressure with high gas prices, huge job losses, and more grey hairs from the lead up to the elections.  

I hope you all survived. I think I came out relatively well. I have made some wonderful new friends that I look forward to learning more about. I have connected with some older friends that were there for me when I needed them most. I got to meet my niece and see my family twice in one year. I started swimming and skiing again. I'm in pretty good shape health wise, and all in all ...

Life is Good.
As this new year begins, and we all recover from our late night to ring in the new year, I thought about what I hope to do this year. The usual ideas come to mind... More time climbing, less time working. More time skiing, less time working. More time with friends and family, less time working.

Maybe I am not being clear?  We now have a culture of work-aholics and a cash cow culture driving these systems of nothingness.  I understand being part of it.  I know I like having a house, car, money to buy new climbing and ski gear... but having all that stuff doesn't help if I don't have the time and never get out and enjoy any of it.  There is a beautiful world out there and I know without doubt or reservation that living in it is a wonderful experience.  And, for many, one that is never tiring.

I hope all of you climbing and ski bums know how lucky you are... And those of you not in the know... A loss of a days wage is nothing compared to never having the experience.  If you are someone who is sitting at your desk and wondering how you are going to make ends meet and do your favorite activity I suggest the following (we've all heard this advice before):

1) Eat healthy; if you are going to spend money on something why not on good tasty food?

2) Be OK with stopping.  When you have a week of running around and not resting (this includes trying to fit in your fun time) take one day to not run around.  Be okay with your mess.  You might even find your priorities will shift in what you think you need.

3)  and finally an unpaid day outside is always better than a paid day at a desk.  You can live without all that kipple piling up in your house... in fact you'll probably be happier without more in general.

On that note, I want to talk about kipple.  Kipple was first introduced by Philip K. Dick in his story Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? Kipple is a lot like SPAM. It has a way of building up and left unattended can overwhelm you.

As I clean out my home from 10 years of kipple that built up over my marriage (Thanks to Aunt Judy at Dynamic Order for all the hard work) I feel such relief to have it being purged from my life. I can find things all of the sudden. Putting things away has become easy. And that drawer that is overflowing with kipple... gone. I'm trying to move onto better things... getting rid of dead weight... Seriously, a good start!

Cheers to all! May your 2009 be filled with many highs, few lows, lots of smiles and laughter, and great adventures.

On Hiatus

It has been a while since I have had much to say. November was a pretty lame month. It started with a cold, a trip to D.C. during a very exciting time, and a trip back from D.C. that set the cold in for the rest of the month. I got out to hike Crystal Mt. and had coughed a bruise into my rib. The docs advice -- stop coughing.

So the climbing season is really too far away. Either by car or by weather. So I decided it was time to return to skiing (yep, that is consistent with my last entry.) And because I hate ski lifts and lines, I decided to dedicate myself to the backcountry and freeriding. I pulled out the old gear and the boots -- well even wrapped in plastic the mice got into them and nested. Boots are on the list to buy. Pulled out two pairs of skis -- the 205s look good, but my knees cannot handle these straight boards. The smaller pair -- the bindings are turning brown. Okay, well at least my poles are still usable.

So I put in a purchase with Backcountry.com for a pair of skis, randonee bindings, and skins. I was going to get boots too, but I figured I would make sure I get comfortable boots. Since they really are the most important part of comfortable skiing. I will check out the local 2nd Ascent.

Now my fingers are crossed. I tweeted a twit friend that I felt Karma owed me a debt. Funny thing about Karma... you think you deserve one thing and you get something you totally didn't know you needed (good and bad.) Fingers are crossed.

Think snow, rumor has it Friday -- Think Snow!

Gravitational Pull

I have missed the gravitational pull of rock climbing. Even the gym doesn't seem to get me excited.

Skiing. That is what has been on my mind. I have mentioned that it has been since I was 21 since I last skied. The Holidays are coming quickly and I will be heading East to Denver. I'm excited. I get to see Darcy again and her older brothers Justin and Nicholas. We are planning to do at least one day of skiing. I have never skied anywhere in Colorado, so I'm pretty stoked. I hope I can remember how to ski. I might even have to try snowboarding. I remember the days when snowboarders where banned from the slope. My dad and I would have long conversations about why that was so stupid. My dad didn't like the boarders in the moguls because he felt they created too much of a grove... I never noticed the difference. He still felt they should be allowed on the mountain though.

I'm sitting watching Steep. I'm moved to get out on the rock and hiking in the snow. Now I just need to find the extra dollars to purchase gear that isn't from 1991. I'm going to be an antique out there... but I'm sure it will be fun.

"I love the gravitational pull." That sums up how I feel about life.

Recharged

The end of climbing season is approaching quickly. Snow in the North Cascades has already started to fall and soon the passes will be filled with cars topped with skis and boards on their way to a winter bliss. I have not skied in nearly fifteen years. It makes me a bit ashamed really. My father's true love and I ditched it because I got hurt. I dislocated my patella. I didn't even get hurt skiing, but the passion fell to other activities and priorities. I should not really call skiing my passion. It simply wasn't. I had many friends that I could ski with but the only person I enjoyed skiing with was myself, and my dad. I think he was sad that I stopped skiing. I sometimes regret that the last time we skied together I was 21 years old.

Well, I'm determined to ski again, or maybe board. I will get on the slopes at least once this year. You are probably wondering why only once? Dad is sitting on my home office desk, and I think it is time for him to move out of the house. I'll have to figure out how to get my sister out here so we can do this right. My Dad, though he wasn't all present in his head, was all present in his heart. Seem like we should give him a happy place to hang out.

In the meantime I'm recharging. I was suppose to be out climbing this weekend but the weather proved to be less than agreeable. Next weekend I have a family gathering and so I won't likely get out to climb and I am doubting the weather will be good enough for a day trip. The GUGOO's are going to enjoy the Leavenworth Oktoberfest on the 18th so I have plans to go climbing and hopefully meet up for the festivities. Until then recharge.

When I recharge, I like to listen (and re-listen) to one of my favorite pod casts of all time -- The Dirtbag Diaries. Fitz Cahall, the pod author, is a few years younger than myself, but like my cousin Kevin he's in touch with that "something" in the world that fills you up and leaves you whole inside. For someone you've never met that might sound ridiculous to say. I know this though, anyone who thinks/speaks "There's at least a half dozen ways to screw this up -- It sounds perfect," has figured out something that the rest of us are still seeking. Facing the challenges head on is what life is all about. Not only that, finding challenges and overcoming them -- Fitz would say "Trip not possible -- Game On!"

So, Game On! Here's to facing the challenges you are presented, and finding those that will make you a better person.

Sun Kissed and Climber Happy

Yesterday would have been my ten year anniversary. Originally, the plan was to go to Las Vegas, get a hotel near the Red Rocks Canyon and have "comfortable climbing." I was thinking how awesome that was going to be climbing and being able to get clean afterwards. Nice meals, clean clothes. Yuppie climbing at its best.

Those plan were discussed last year when we were in Red Rocks. Unfortunately for me, life changed in such a way that this never happened. Instead, I met up with some people I had never met before. In fact, people I had barely even talked with before. There are some great places to meetup with other like minded people and gather and have good experiences. I met Beylan and Julie on the Seattle Climbing Meetup really by accident. I wanted to get out climbing, and Beylan had plans to get out and do some climbing at Vantage. I, of course, don't like vantage so quickly suggested Index, Squamish, and Leavenworth. The group quickly grew to about six people planning to climb in Leavenworth. The plan, as the group got larger, fell a part. We were suppose to meet with a couple of other guys from the group (Jason and Brian), but given I have to come from the other side of the Puget Sound, it meant that getting to the P&R at 7 AM was not likely to happen for me. I hope to meet them soon though.

Instead, Beylan, and her friend Julie were going to meet me and my friend Jennifer at the Northgate Park and Ride at 8:30 AM. That hour and a half difference was kind of a big deal. Weekend ferries are a pain, and driving around is just getting too hard some times.

So our little side meet up group made the trek to Leavenworth for a day of climbing. Since we were all new to each other except for Beylan and Julie, we decided that a safe place to climb would be Clam Shell Cave. This is a nice little crag where you can setup top ropes and just get plenty of climbing in quickly. Beylan jumped quick in to her lead -- put on that game face and get your head on -- while Jennifer and I setup a top rope on what was either the easiest 5.8 in the world, or simply not 5.8. I ran up a quick 5.6 trad lead that Beylan had just finished, and encouraged Julie to follow my lead to check out how I placed gear. The lead was so easy I actually only placed a few pieces, but Julie eventually did her first gear lead -- Yeah! Julie!

Beylan and Julie spent time doing some other top ropes, while Jennifer and I went and did the 10b GRTC, and 5.9 Eagles Prey. Jennifer was hot to lead, and I followed. The 10b was interesting and we bounced that a couple times as the crux is getting to the first bolt. My long arms makes it possible to do that, but Jennifer's shorter stature proved quite the challenge. She did awesome and we had lots of laughs at the creative methods for advancing up the climb.

The 5.9, Eagles Prey, was an interesting start as well. The first bolt is an awkward reach to clip and a fall before that is going to hurt. And likely make the hike out suck. Jennifer was ready to lead hard, and so we read the beta for the climb -- it called for gear to one inch and four bolts. Wrong! The gear placement was more like gear to three inches. After a sketchy placement, and a one inch placement at the back of the crack -- my fat arms barely could reach it, I got to the top and the sun had set. It was time to head home.

It was good that the darkness didn't really set in until we reached the car. My head lamp was in the back door and the pine needles covered the protruding stones, which made walking out difficult enough in the low light. I have to remember to put that in my pack for next weekend.

So all-in-all, I made the best of celebrating a moment in time that will never be. We do what we can and we have fun. It was nice to climb with three lovely ladies -- they even let me be a know-it-all without too much harassment. Next weekend is a multi-pitch extravaganza. It will be fun to meet up with more of this crew.

I am not Afraid

That's Right! I said it. I'm not afraid. I can stop and ask for directions! Leaving City of Rocks, I headed out on route 77. The map says that it will go straight through to I-85. Hmmm, for some reason the road ahead said "Dead End" and I don't want to take route X north. I want to go east. Yep, I have to stop at the gas station and find out if I go left or right. I'm told I go left, and hang a right at the sign that points to I-85. Glad I didn't go with my instinct -- I'd have gone right for a very boring drive

The climbing was amazing at City of Rocks. I left the office Friday at five o'clock, and stopped in Tacoma for dinner and some shopping and then put the miles on. I slept at a rest stop somewhere just after Pendleton Oregon, and then finished the drive Saturday Morning. The drive into the Reserve was beautiful.

When I arrived at the campground Jim had just arrived. I introduced myself to him and we made lunch and began to chat. We spent a little time looking at his guide book and then made our way over to "Practice Rock" where I lead a 5.6 and Jim followed me up. We met some nice people who allowed us to top rope their climbs (Thanks Guys who's names I have already forgotten).

Jim and I returned to camp and made dinner and waited for George and Karen to arrive. After more socializing I went to bed and slept through the night. We all woke about the same time and proceeded to make breakfast. Now, some of you may know that I'm not the best packer. I apparently left my oatmeal at home. Standard form for me. I did have a banana and some breakfast bars, but the meal was pretty weak. I had an apple sauce to make it last.

The decision to climb Jackson's Thumb was made and the day looked beautiful. In the picture the Thumb is the short rock spire to the left, in the shadow of the larger "fist."

George and Karen were one pair and Jim and myself the other. Four pitches of over bolted rock was before us, and we were ready to go. Jim and I were going to swap leads, and I started with the first. Jim did the second, with me finishing off the last two leads. As Jim approached me at the third belay he asked "are you pissing?" I responded with a no. "It must be raining then." Yep, the thunder clouds to the north were starting their rumblings and we had one more pitch to go. Jim decided I would move faster, so I took the lead and cruised to the top. We made a quick rappel and scrambled down to our lunch and packs. The storm seemed to be just passing us and I was thinking we might get another climb in. Boom! The rain started to fall pretty hard. The crew behind Jim and I decided to descend the climb unfinished, and the crew on the next climb over asked how far it was from the top. Flash Boom! Okay, everybody off the rock!

I often joke, if you see me running you have to wonder what is chasing me. I moved down that mountain at a jog. The wind had picked up and what felt like hail was rain pelts sped up by the wind. We got to the car soaked and drove back to camp. I threw my stuff in my car and began to strip out of my cold wet clothing, put dry clothing on, and crawl into the bag and warm up. Seemed like a good time to read a book.

The storm passed and George wanted to do more climbing. Me too, Jim three. We made our way over to Rain Dancer, which was a two pitch climb -5.7, 5.5. George did the lead, Jim followed, and I enjoyed the leisure of the climb. We got to the top and I setup the rappel. Last up, last down. Dang the wind was cold and I was shivering. My bag was starting to sound very good again.

Karen met us at the end of the trail -- she'd started a fire and had some veggies to share with us all. It was another pleasant evening, and I was worn so I left for bed. I was out. Apparently, the wind had kept the other three awake. I was OUT. The morning was cold, shady and didn't bode well for climbing. I sat in my bag reading. After lunch I did some wandering and photography.

We went out to Box Top rock but the climbs seemed inactive, and the rock crumbly, and it was decided to wander over to Stripe Rock. Here George tried to convince me that the 10b was a 5.7. It just didn't feel right. I got us on the right climb but by the time George and Jim got to the first belay, it was time to head back to camp. Oh well. I got some bouldering earlier...I'd have to wait for tomorrow.

Elephant Rock has about ten perfect lines on it. Give or take. George wanted to do one of the 5.8's but they were already covered with climbers. "There's a four star 5.7 -- that's a classic in this guide." Yep, that's the line, and no one is on it. George and Karen will do the first lead, Jim and I will do the second lead. We only had enough gear so I had an easy lead and no gear placements. The lead was fantastic. George and I lowered Karen and Jim off the rock and then did the two rope rappel. I wrapped up the gear -- it was time to get to Denver.

City of Rocks -- I'll be back to climb your beautiful granite.

Rained Out

I decided I needed a weekend of rock climbing and so made plans to head up to Squamish. I had some friends that were up there all week and it was a wet week. I had my fingers crossed that I'd get clear weather. The initial reports were looking good, but the word was that Sunday was 100% chance of rain. Against the odds I made my way to the rock with a new climbing partner, George. We arrived Friday afternoon and proceeded to do a few runs up Burger and Fries. It was short lived as I was hungry and wanting to find a place to camp.

We had a nice evening with the crew, and by 11:30 we decided to go to sleep. We woke to a grey sky and no rain. Good news for us, so George and I headed to the Apron. As I was gearing up my cell rang. I thought -- this is the call. My sister was having a baby! It was my mom telling me that the kid already came -- No name had been decided yet. George and I proceeded to hunt down our climb. It was a bit of a trek but we got to our climb and no one was on it. Whew.

We did Banana Peel, a eight pitch 5.7 climb, with some great places you could actually run up the rock. We followed that up with Memorial Crack (5.9) and a rappel into the pond. Our beer was earned and we headed back to camp after dinner.

I was feeling pretty tired after all the climbing and so lay down to rest a bit. I'm not sure how long I was out, but George came over, and apologized for waking me -- "Oh, no, I wasn't asleep," I responded as I wiped the drool from my cheek.

Sunday just couldn't hold out for us. It was full down pour. George and I packed up and hurried to wait in a two hour boarder line. That sucked, but the rest of the ride home was fantastic. Now that the new niece is here, I have plans to head out again. Road Trip 2008. I'm going it solo....wish me luck.

Oblivious

One of the things I love about myself is that I can be completely oblivious. This can certainly be to my detriment but at the same time I can stop what I'm doing strike up a conversation with Micah Dash and not even realize I'm talking to one of the great climbers of modern times. I talked with Micah and his climbing buddy, who's name escapes me, about what great climbs we'd just been doing.

Turns out that my Squamish weekend was during the Mountain Festival and many of the greats were around this weekend. I had come up take pictures of just random climbers. It was good that I found my friends though as I forgot to charge my camera battery. Although, I suppose it would have been cool to take pictures of some of these great climbers. Instead I got sleepy morning people.

I didn't get my usual round of pictures. I was enjoying the time with my friends, and the climbing. I started my weekend off climbing pretty ambitious and lead a 5.9 on trad. I got a bit freaked at the crux, and let Jason finish it for me, but I lowered off my gear and did it on top rope. More projects to add to the list.

I have a place to stay when I visit Mexico though now. Rhi's friend and two daughters were up visiting and I got to join in on the climbing fun with them. Lalo is from Oaxaca and has graciously invited me to be a guest. I think given my desire to live out some of my dreams lately that I am going to find a way down there and make that happen.

Mexico. Yep, I better study up my español.

Pursuing Greater Highs

As you probably know -- climbing centers me. All the chatter in my head stops. Recently, I have acquired a Tuesday night climbing partner. Tom and I are about the same age, and about the same build, and about the same climbing strength. We usually swap belays and we challenge each other to climb harder and harder.

Today, Tom and I did our first 10b lead climbs in the gym. We have both climbed the route on top rope, and it was clear we needed to lead this thing. I started the climb and fell at the fourth clip. It took three tries to work through the clip and by the time I figured it out, I was too tired to finish the fifth clip. I think I can get this clean on the next couple tries. Tom had the advantage of learning from my efforts, and also had to take but managed to work his way to the anchors.

It was a nice afternoon of climbing. We started by doing some low warm up climbs. I started by doing three lead runs on an easy 5.8, and a fourth on an easy 5.9. I then belayed for Tom, and repeated his 5.10a, 5.8 lead combo. Tom took a couple slab top ropes while I rested before I headed for the 10b. After my failed 10b attempt I finished up with a simple 5.9 and top roped a 10b, and two 5.8 slabs.

It is clear I'm now going to need elbow icing, but it was worth it and I'm so thrilled I attempted a 10b on lead. I'm very excited with my new found confidence in my climbing. I think 10c's are soon to follow.

Now -- the count down to my week in Squamish begins.