Thursday, September 4, 2008

I am not Afraid

That's Right! I said it. I'm not afraid. I can stop and ask for directions! Leaving City of Rocks, I headed out on route 77. The map says that it will go straight through to I-85. Hmmm, for some reason the road ahead said "Dead End" and I don't want to take route X north. I want to go east. Yep, I have to stop at the gas station and find out if I go left or right. I'm told I go left, and hang a right at the sign that points to I-85. Glad I didn't go with my instinct -- I'd have gone right for a very boring drive

The climbing was amazing at City of Rocks. I left the office Friday at five o'clock, and stopped in Tacoma for dinner and some shopping and then put the miles on. I slept at a rest stop somewhere just after Pendleton Oregon, and then finished the drive Saturday Morning. The drive into the Reserve was beautiful.

When I arrived at the campground Jim had just arrived. I introduced myself to him and we made lunch and began to chat. We spent a little time looking at his guide book and then made our way over to "Practice Rock" where I lead a 5.6 and Jim followed me up. We met some nice people who allowed us to top rope their climbs (Thanks Guys who's names I have already forgotten).

Jim and I returned to camp and made dinner and waited for George and Karen to arrive. After more socializing I went to bed and slept through the night. We all woke about the same time and proceeded to make breakfast. Now, some of you may know that I'm not the best packer. I apparently left my oatmeal at home. Standard form for me. I did have a banana and some breakfast bars, but the meal was pretty weak. I had an apple sauce to make it last.

The decision to climb Jackson's Thumb was made and the day looked beautiful. In the picture the Thumb is the short rock spire to the left, in the shadow of the larger "fist."

George and Karen were one pair and Jim and myself the other. Four pitches of over bolted rock was before us, and we were ready to go. Jim and I were going to swap leads, and I started with the first. Jim did the second, with me finishing off the last two leads. As Jim approached me at the third belay he asked "are you pissing?" I responded with a no. "It must be raining then." Yep, the thunder clouds to the north were starting their rumblings and we had one more pitch to go. Jim decided I would move faster, so I took the lead and cruised to the top. We made a quick rappel and scrambled down to our lunch and packs. The storm seemed to be just passing us and I was thinking we might get another climb in. Boom! The rain started to fall pretty hard. The crew behind Jim and I decided to descend the climb unfinished, and the crew on the next climb over asked how far it was from the top. Flash Boom! Okay, everybody off the rock!

I often joke, if you see me running you have to wonder what is chasing me. I moved down that mountain at a jog. The wind had picked up and what felt like hail was rain pelts sped up by the wind. We got to the car soaked and drove back to camp. I threw my stuff in my car and began to strip out of my cold wet clothing, put dry clothing on, and crawl into the bag and warm up. Seemed like a good time to read a book.

The storm passed and George wanted to do more climbing. Me too, Jim three. We made our way over to Rain Dancer, which was a two pitch climb -5.7, 5.5. George did the lead, Jim followed, and I enjoyed the leisure of the climb. We got to the top and I setup the rappel. Last up, last down. Dang the wind was cold and I was shivering. My bag was starting to sound very good again.

Karen met us at the end of the trail -- she'd started a fire and had some veggies to share with us all. It was another pleasant evening, and I was worn so I left for bed. I was out. Apparently, the wind had kept the other three awake. I was OUT. The morning was cold, shady and didn't bode well for climbing. I sat in my bag reading. After lunch I did some wandering and photography.

We went out to Box Top rock but the climbs seemed inactive, and the rock crumbly, and it was decided to wander over to Stripe Rock. Here George tried to convince me that the 10b was a 5.7. It just didn't feel right. I got us on the right climb but by the time George and Jim got to the first belay, it was time to head back to camp. Oh well. I got some bouldering earlier...I'd have to wait for tomorrow.

Elephant Rock has about ten perfect lines on it. Give or take. George wanted to do one of the 5.8's but they were already covered with climbers. "There's a four star 5.7 -- that's a classic in this guide." Yep, that's the line, and no one is on it. George and Karen will do the first lead, Jim and I will do the second lead. We only had enough gear so I had an easy lead and no gear placements. The lead was fantastic. George and I lowered Karen and Jim off the rock and then did the two rope rappel. I wrapped up the gear -- it was time to get to Denver.

City of Rocks -- I'll be back to climb your beautiful granite.

No comments: