Oblivious

One of the things I love about myself is that I can be completely oblivious. This can certainly be to my detriment but at the same time I can stop what I'm doing strike up a conversation with Micah Dash and not even realize I'm talking to one of the great climbers of modern times. I talked with Micah and his climbing buddy, who's name escapes me, about what great climbs we'd just been doing.

Turns out that my Squamish weekend was during the Mountain Festival and many of the greats were around this weekend. I had come up take pictures of just random climbers. It was good that I found my friends though as I forgot to charge my camera battery. Although, I suppose it would have been cool to take pictures of some of these great climbers. Instead I got sleepy morning people.

I didn't get my usual round of pictures. I was enjoying the time with my friends, and the climbing. I started my weekend off climbing pretty ambitious and lead a 5.9 on trad. I got a bit freaked at the crux, and let Jason finish it for me, but I lowered off my gear and did it on top rope. More projects to add to the list.

I have a place to stay when I visit Mexico though now. Rhi's friend and two daughters were up visiting and I got to join in on the climbing fun with them. Lalo is from Oaxaca and has graciously invited me to be a guest. I think given my desire to live out some of my dreams lately that I am going to find a way down there and make that happen.

Mexico. Yep, I better study up my español.

Pursuing Greater Highs

As you probably know -- climbing centers me. All the chatter in my head stops. Recently, I have acquired a Tuesday night climbing partner. Tom and I are about the same age, and about the same build, and about the same climbing strength. We usually swap belays and we challenge each other to climb harder and harder.

Today, Tom and I did our first 10b lead climbs in the gym. We have both climbed the route on top rope, and it was clear we needed to lead this thing. I started the climb and fell at the fourth clip. It took three tries to work through the clip and by the time I figured it out, I was too tired to finish the fifth clip. I think I can get this clean on the next couple tries. Tom had the advantage of learning from my efforts, and also had to take but managed to work his way to the anchors.

It was a nice afternoon of climbing. We started by doing some low warm up climbs. I started by doing three lead runs on an easy 5.8, and a fourth on an easy 5.9. I then belayed for Tom, and repeated his 5.10a, 5.8 lead combo. Tom took a couple slab top ropes while I rested before I headed for the 10b. After my failed 10b attempt I finished up with a simple 5.9 and top roped a 10b, and two 5.8 slabs.

It is clear I'm now going to need elbow icing, but it was worth it and I'm so thrilled I attempted a 10b on lead. I'm very excited with my new found confidence in my climbing. I think 10c's are soon to follow.

Now -- the count down to my week in Squamish begins.

Starting anew.

Welcome.

I'm glad you have decided to continue reading my blog on my climbing adventures and other events of my life. As you might have guessed, my previous life has come to an end. It is a sad thing, but it is the for the best and it is time to begin the newest chapters in my life.

So let me begin this new life with a new blog. Again, welcome friends and family.

I am preparing for the next climbing trip at the end of June. This involves counting gear and reading the guide books. I intend to spend an entire week in Squamish with friends, and I'm looking forward to doing some leads on gear. It has been a long time since I've lead on gear but my fear of leading seems to be gone with my old life. I'm taking on harder climbs without much fear. I seem to trust myself more and my confidence is allowing me to climb harder than before.

I've been improving my strength and patience while climbing. This has been a real trial as I have less time now than ever before. The summer will be filled with people coming to help prepare my home for sale. So many decisions have to be made these days. I'm thinking I will have to head out in the Fall and visit my family in Denver which when I do I plan to climb the Flatirons. Of course, I will have to buy more gear. My old life left me missing so many pieces. I think I'll need to do a bit of research on what the weather is like in the Fall for the irons.

I have many goals too for this summer. I'm hoping to also get to the City of Rocks. Maybe I will do this when I head to Denver? I will need to organize some friends for this process. I will need to make some new friends to be climbing partners with...which isn't easy. Most climbers my age have been climbing for almost five to ten years, and if they are my age, they have families they won't want to leave for a week. But the adventure begins whether I want it to or not.

Many more crunches, and hanging on the boards will be required.

So with that, you have read the first blog of many more to come.  New lives are difficult but in the immortal worlds of Grover from Sesame Street -- "Don't forget to breath -- In and Out!"