Life and Climbing with Chrispy

Adventures in Healing

2011-08-08T12:38:00.000-07:00

It has been a while. Halloooo

Let me catch you up. Back in January an offer was made on my house so I could finally close up those ties with my ex-wife. At the beginning of February I made an offer on a small two bedroom condo in Poulsbo. It is a really nice place and everyday I am grateful for the good people around me. There was trouble though since as a small business person the banks wouldn't give me a loan without a close family member co-signing. Thanks MOM! Yeah, I know, that seems silly. Though, I did get the place and after only five and a half weeks I was able to move in.

During the time of all this moving I had incurred an injury on my left forearm. I was the goalie at a soccer game and a wild elbow was thrown. I got a pretty bruise and it seemed to heal up and go away. The only problem was I started to have strange pains at random. I would be sitting reading and all the sudden my arm would just tighten up and "charlie horse." Not long after that I started to lose feeling in the last two fingers. I couldn't turn the knob on the door, pull on the handle to open the fridge, or lift anything. Climbing was on hold. I figured I could sit things out for a while and heal. My previous year climbing was stellar, and I was still able to play soccer and dance still. So all is good in my mind, except -- my arm wasn't healing. Even dancing was difficult (left handed leads.)

After almost 5 months, I finally went and got a Physical Therapy. Fortunately, this helped and I was able to start building muscle again in the arm. I got healed enough but was still very weak on the climbing walls. And then there would be another injury that would follow... again during soccer.

I got one day of climbing outside with a friend this season (so far.) We hiked the two and a half miles in to do Outer Space, in Leavenworth. The lineup for this popular climb was busy as we expected. We put down our packs and waited it out. At 11 o'clock we got to start our climb. We should have known it wasn't going to go well though when the prior two groups were telling us about their partners and lack of multi-pitch experience. But their partners were skilled enough, right? Right? WTF?!?

Long story short, we bailed after the second pitch when the clock clicked 3:00 PM. Hiking out the 2.5 wasn't bad... all down hill and since this was a day trip, we drove back to Seattle... climb unfinished. The following day I joined my co-ed soccer league for a match that went very well. We had lots of fun even though I was starting to feel the fatigue building in my legs. And then Tuesday.

Tuesday is the Men's B league. Our team was getting crushed (10-0 crushed.) In the second half, the ball was passed to me and in the break away it was me and the goalie. The goalie came out of the box and as he slid into me I chipped the ball up over him and into the goal. I gracefully jumped over the goalie to make sure the ball went in. I scored the lone goal for our team and was feeling really pumped and excited.

Two minutes left in the game, another break away to the far corner. My teammate gets the ball as I head to the top of the key (this is indoor soccer.) The pass isn't good, so I reach my foot out for the ball. I felt something go wrong. I thought I pulled my groin, and then I noticed it. My kneecap had move out of alignment. This is the fourth time in 20 years that I have done this, and the sad thing about it -- every single time has been when my legs have been tired and I didn't rest.

Lying in pain my kneecap displaced, I did my best to straighten my leg and put things back together. And now I would have another six weeks of healing... minimum.

I did go to the doctor. X-rays were taken. The doctor came in, looked at the knee and basically said, "Heal, if you start to do this often we need to do surgery. You know the drill." And now, I'm on my own. I have done this before but the hardest part this time, I have to know when I'm ready. Before I could wait until I was given the go-ahead. The good news is I'm healing fast. I'm starting week five and plan to go into the climbing gym for some traversing, and then over to the Y for some swimming. I'm on target, and maybe in a few more weeks I can try some running and soccer... or maybe I'll wait on the soccer a little longer. I'm excited to get back to my activities of skiing, climbing, dancing, soccer, etc, etc. I just need to remember, as my body ages my mind needs to be considerate and allow for rest and repair. Sometimes the hardest part is remembering without letting it hold me back. I may be getting older but that doesn't mean I have to stop the things I love... I just need to do them within the limits of this body.

Although, I still think someone needs to come up with a better knee.

Round and Round We Go

2011-03-19T08:55:00.001-07:00

The home I had with my Ex finally sold. That was a month ago, and I'm currently living in an apartment under my realtor's home. It is nice -- full kitchen, fully furnished, and my cats and dog are welcome here. The sucky part is all my things are currently sitting in a moving truck pack from end to end, bottom to top.

Originally, I was suppose to be moving into a new condo. I found the lovely little condo in downtown Poulsbo. It was a forclosure, and it was just inside my price range. Everything was going well, the mortgage company assured me everything would be fine, and so given all the information I had it was expected that I might only be between homes for a few days. Five at most.

And then I got the call. The mortgage company can't make the numbers work. Why? Oh, no particular reason -- I'm self employed, in 2010 I made a decision to keep my income low, and ... There is nothing more annoying than stupid people in charge of financial matters. Seriously, what do you call and institution that wants a nearly 40 year old to have his retired mother co-sign on a home purchase, when you have over half the value of the property saved, your offering 20% down, and you still are considered a risk because you run your own business that has been profitable every year since the beginning?

I call that stupid. And what can I do? Well I asked Mom to co-sign. And she, of course, thought it was ridiculous but was glad to help her son. Thanks Mom!

And now, it has been a month, and I still have not gotten to move into my new place. I'm sitting on the couch and wondering if I want to start unloading part of the moving truck so I can find my business records and file my taxes, or deposit my business checks -- yeah, I know, what was I thinking packing up my skis, my climbing gear, my business. I cannot even deposit checks (I could but I have a process that I like to go through to keep everything organized.) I should have at least kept my harness and shoes... WHAT WAS I THINKING?

So I sit and wait. Deep breaths. It will all be resolved. For now, I have some down time.

Most Days

2010-08-26T10:05:00.000-07:00

Hey. Long time. I wrote a post back in March and never published it. I guess I just didn't feel that much had been going on. Or maybe I had enough going on and it was more the mundane events that you all don't really need to know about... or more likely you just know instinctively.

Since my unpublished post Spring and Summer have happened and it has been a busy exciting and fun time. Back in April my good friends Amy and Paul and myself left for Spring Break. We did the drive to Vegas, and had a wonderful snow storm to drive through. Paul and Amy are unseasoned at the long haul drive and decided next year we are flying. Wimps.

It was a climbing trip and like most trips we climb, eat, and sleep. Tired from the drive and not able to check in to the hotel (yeah, we were roughing it) we started out doing some easy sport climbs at Cannibal Crag, and while the climbing is awesome I think most of us were distracted by the lingerie shoot going on behind us. I'd post the pictures but really it was more a distraction. We climbed just a few routes and were glad when the hours rolled towards our check in time.

We went to the Strip, which was my first time, and enjoyed being tourist for a while. And then we caught up on much needed sleep. The next morning was nice and we climbed for a bit until the wind picked up. The day cut a bit short we headed back to the Strip and found more trouble. Of course, the following day would become a forced rest day and our plan for adventure drew us to the Adventure Dome. This is an indoor theme park and we had fun... until the "4D" ride totally bugged me out. I was fine flipping upside down, being swung around in circles, but the video and shaking....brruupt.

And then it was back to our climbing adventure. We spent a day of "everyone leads" at Panty Wall, and a day on Solar Slab, and a final day with just a few climbs back at Cannibal Crag before heading home. No big adventure, but lots of fun none-the-less.

Following the return home, I'm sure I did a few days of skiing, but not enough of it. I wish I'd kept up with skiing one day of each month but regular life does happen. Summer came on quickly and there was lots of whining about the rain. I managed to play soccer twice a week. And dancing once a week.

The dancing has been quite fun but as the summer heat came on I put it on hold... I'll be going back to it in September. I have become a pretty good lead in West Coast Swing, and I do alright with the other dance steps. I think my favorites are the swings, but I'd like to get better at the waltz and foxtrot.

On the climbing topic, I got to tick off a few climbs on my list. One was to climb Deidre in Squamish -- I've been trying to get to it for the last three years. I actually did it twice this year, once swapping leads and once leading the whole thing. I went back and led Master Of My Domain, and I even added a few climbs I had never before led to my list. I also got to zipline, which wasn't as much thrilling as just fun. And I also got to water ski for the first time in probably twenty years. I got up but the waters were rugged so I didn't do any fancy turns. Next year.

I have my sights set on a few more immediate things for now. Keep your fingers crossed that I'm successful... I'd appreciate it if you would anyway.

Two Seconds

2010-01-21T10:14:00.000-08:00

November 21, 2009 Mack, Mosetick, and I meet up for a day of backcountry skiing. We carpooled to Crystal Mountain and drove past the parking attendant ignoring his instructions of where to park. At the C parking lot we started the process of gearing up. Like climbing, the steps a group goes through to start a day of play begins with a lot of fussing, chattering, teasing, laughing, and general excitement. I love this part. I can go home now; I'm satisfied. I tell myself, "Just wait, it only gets better."

We start the trek up the path, meeting up with a couple of random guys and their dog. A skin track is before us and we all make our way up the trail until we reach the ridge of Bullion Basin. The snow is untouched. Mack starts a pit and we do some testing. The top five inches of the snow is our concern. We aren't that concerned and clean up the pit, finish off some gummy fish, water ourselves, and put skis back on for the first runs.

"I'll go first and then video you guys from below."

"Ha ha, you just want the first run."

"There are advantages to being the videographer."

I cut across the field to drop into my line, the turns smooth, the snow is deep, the speed right to float me through this powdery goodness. And out of no where I started hooting and cheering. I'm surprised at myself as this occurs. I come to the base of my run and I'm laughing, the wind has caused tears in my eyes. Heaven.

For those two seconds where the world goes quiet, where all my trouble, all my fear, all my worries go quiet -- all that is left is pure joy. I don't experience that very often. Usually, I'm in my routine, having fun and enjoying the moment... seldom do I have that moment of joy that rises up out of me into uncontrolled vocal excitement.

That two seconds... it's why I ski, it's why I climb.

Avalanche Safety Reprise

2009-12-15T17:33:00.000-08:00

Oops. I forgot to post this before I left for Denver on December 18th. Must have been busy and forgot... Here it is... better late than never...

I finished my Avalanche Awareness course. Three Mondays at REI, and a field trip to Steven's Pass. The field class was pretty uneventful, which in a way is good. I learned lots of things. One is that finding a beacon buried a few inches under the snow is not the same as locating a beacon three feet or more under the snow. Another is that I need to replace my probe with one of a better quality. I got a BCA Probe that came free with my shovel and it just isn't very good. At one point during a rescue scenario I was asked to help probe for the victim and I failed to secure it tightly causing it to collapse. Having your probe collapse is kind of embarrassing.

Also I found that a number of people don't take a scenario like that seriously. The scenario is that three victims have been buried in an avalanche and you are being asked to help locate and recover the bodies (hopefully alive.) Those that are involved often make jokes, they over act, they don't just simply behave with the seriousness that is required for such a topic. I don't get that. I mean to have fun and all, but if I ever have to dig someone out of an avalanche, I want to know that I can do it -- even if/when I'm totally freaked out. And of course, I want to know if I'm caught in one and need to be dug out that those I'm with take it seriously and know what to do as well.

I didn't take any pictures. It was a beautiful day but I was just more busy playing and learning than I realized. And the guide/instructor did tell us to bring a camera if we wanted. Oh well, I will be sure to take some pictures the next time I'm out on the snow.

I'm leaving for Denver late Friday evening and hoping to arrive late Saturday or early Sunday. And then I'm sure it will be one activity after the next. I'll be sure to put up additional updates.

Happy Holidays everyone!

Avalanche!

2009-12-11T08:21:00.000-08:00

Every time Mack and I go skiing in the backcountry we do a serious practice of beacon locating. Mack or I will take a lead on the skin track wrap a beacon in a coat or baggie and bury it in the snow. A simple not to panic "Avalanche" call lets the other know to look up and identify the last location. And then we breakout our beacon, switch it to search mode, and find the other "person."

We do this every single trip. With one exception, and that was because I had left my beacon at home (by accident) and the avalanche concern was "Low." So we made a calculated decision to continue without beacons. The intention of practicing beacon location every time is that we don't want to panic should we ever have to actually locate another person.

I watched a video on youtube a while back which now has been on different news channels, and has been turned into a advertisement for the Avalung. Interestingly enough, the guy caught in the avalanche had his mouth piece just out of reach of his mouth and couldn't use it to breath. He was rescued exceptionally fast (buried with skis on and tips showing) at 4 minutes 30 seconds. One third of people caught in avalanche are believed to be killed by trauma. After 30 minutes you only have a 50% chance of survival. And the average time to dig someone out even with a beacon -- 20 minutes. The odds are against you in the winter backcountry world.

So we practice our safety skills every time. We certainly take calculated risks. We read the snow reports and dig pits to verify the conditions. We watch the weather before us, and we have honest discussions about the dangers.

Tomorrow, I will head out with a group of people that will have an introductory field class on Avalanche safety. Yeah, I know -- I should have taken this class last year. I am surprised at myself for putting it off this long. I won't take the level 1 certification until the new year. So in some ways, I'm still putting it off.

I know in this class we won't be going in very far to the backcountry; the entire trip is just over a mile from what I understand. I'm super excited for it though and having fun doing the prep work. I'm reading the NWAC and watching the weather reports. Packing up extra gear in case someone needs extra layers, and gathering my food so I can make sure I'm not too starved once I arrive. I also packed the camera. I hope I have something fun to share in the next few days.

Stay with Me!

2009-11-12T11:56:00.000-08:00

I sit in anticipation of events my week holds. Skiing will come with my preferred backcountry adventures awaiting my mark on the canvas of snow. Tonight a movie.

Today -- I was reviewing some other bloggers and their take on "fear." In particular the fear that comes with climbing, but I'm actually looking at fear from a different prospective. For me, in this case, it isn't limited to climbing.

I have been self employed for less than a year. I've been hanging on, and sticking to my work. However, some days the fear sets in and with that fear -- immobility. My brain doesn't get it, but my body instinctively wants to remain unmoved. My brain is saying... "You can do it!" "Go, Chris, Go!" "You've done harder, this will be a breeze." My body shudders a bit and finds a snuggle with my dog, or desires to crawl back into bed, or puts on the tube to distract from my brains encouragement.

Even now, I sit and write this blog instead of taking on my project. My project is laid out before me. I will write though, entrench my brain on the task of not just understanding this fear, but what path I should use to overcome it.

My project remains unattended.

I sit here now the only problem before me... I can only go forward. So you're wondering, why aren't you working on your project and instead writing a blog? Two reasons a) I haven't done a blog update in a long time(yes I get the irony,) and 2) in my head, I'm standing midway up the first pitch of Ewephoric on the Sheeps Head in Cochise.

I yelled down to my climbing partner Brigette, "I don't think I can do this." She didn't respond. Or maybe she did. I don't recall. I plugged a piece of gear into the wall, this wide smooth handholdless monster. I stood there for a long time. I had a conversation with my self.

selfdoubt: "Downclimb?"
me: "No."
selfdoubt: "You only have one other choice, you get that don't you?"
me: "No, I have two other choices."
selfdoubt: "Two other choices? Really? Besides going down? You're so full of shit."
me: "Yes, two other choices besides going down. I can go up, that would be a good choice. Or I can also just stand here until a rescue party comes."
selfdoubt: "Dumbass."
me: "So how do you think I should go up then?"
selfdoubt: "You're probably right, just stand there until the rescue party comes."
me: "Great. Well, I can at least move up to that ledge there."
selfdoubt: "Then what, you can see there is no way to protect there."
me: "Well, I'll just take the next obvious step."
selfdoubt: "Dumbass."

I moved up the rock. A scene from Gladiator moved through my head and I hear the words of Maximus: "Three weeks from now...Imagine where you will be, and it will be so. Hold the line! Stay with me! If you find yourself alone, riding in the green fields with the sun on your face, do not be troubled. For you are in Elysium, and you're already dead!"

In the movie the soldiers all laugh. I didn't laugh, I was already alone. I had moved up to that next ledge, and recalled that the party before us had another piece in the rock above me before reaching the one bolt on the entire first pitch. I didn't like the way that looked. I stepped out of the runnel crack thing I was in, and just slab face climbed my way to the bolt. A good choice in hindsight, but scary. I reached the bolt, clipped, the climb was pretty much over... one pitch down, only four pitches to go. And no, I won't tell you how far it was from my last gear placement to the bolt.

I know how to conquer my fear. The problem isn't conquering it. The problem is I'm not ready for Elysium. It is easy to step out and let the current carry you. You might get bumped along the way, scrapped up, maybe even broken a bit. Those who don't let go will cheer you and give you hero status or poo-poo you because they didn't have the courage. They will call you mentor, roll model, inspiration, crazy, moron, idiot. How brave of you! How stupid! And yet, all you did was let go in the moment, and let it wash over you. Somehow even when I embrace that fear and accept immobility I eventually let go. Okay, I don't know how to conquer my fear, I just accept it.

I'm encouraged to move; be physical. This morning I woke with my dog to let her water the grass and then filled her tummy with breakfast. Often I choose to crawl back into my warm sheets and sleep another 15 or 30 minutes, an hour. I started washing the dishes. Be mobile. I can do that; that isn't what is holding me back. I can do the physical. This is emotional. This is mental. I have the means, I'm intelligent, I have the plan, I have the resources, I have everything I need. And somehow I am fighting against this immobility, I fight against Elysium.

That's the story... I guess it is time to let go. I'll let you know how it turns out.

My Review of Black Diamond Method Randonee Boots - Men's

2009-10-29T13:09:00.001-07:00

Originally submitted at REI

These stiff Method freeride boots from Black Diamond are for the aggressive skier and built to take them over any and all terrain.

First boot in 14 years.

By Climbing Chris from Poulsbo, WA on 10/29/2009

Gift: No

Pros: Flexible, Stable, Lightweight

Best Uses: Downhill, Deep Powder, Back Country

Describe Yourself: Advanced

This is the first boot I have purchased in 14 years. I got them last year and used them for several days of touring. They were fantastic. I didn't have any physical pain or problems with these boots. I even hiked two miles in them back to the car and while glad to take them off at the end of a day, they were fantastic.

Love, love, love my Methods

(legalese)

Rock!

2009-07-30T10:35:00.000-07:00

I don't have very many exciting pictures. This one here -- ~~Lambert~~ Lembert Dome. It has some pretty fun climbs. I lead the three pitch 5.6 Northwest Book in two pitches. Of course, that isn't a big deal at all. I got lapped by free soloers who run up that climb just for the exercise of it. Seriously, I met a guy named Chris while I was finishing the last pitch who was doing just this. I asked what the top was like. His response was to look for the block that will take any piece of gear you have left. I found the block, built my anchor, and brought up my cousin (who is also very capable of free soloing this climb -- he climbed this in his tennies) and by the time we were at the top, Chris was finishing his second lap.

It wasn't a hard climb by any stretch and very fun. I highly recommend it for a warm up to getting your lead head on. There is only one slick spot but the protection is fantastic. I'd even say skip the first bolt. It doesn't really do much for you anyway, though great for that secure feeling you might need.

I actually spent more time bouldering than I did climbing the faces. My first two days were bouldering at the Kitty and Puppy boulders. My two cents -- the Kitty boulders are way better. That isn't to say you shouldn't spend time on the Puppy boulders too. I just like the type of climbing that has clean ground to fall on. I also spent a day climbing at the Knobs. These boulders are awesome. The granite is laced with feldspar cubes that you can pinch and stand on... I even did my first "highball." Okay, it was not really a highball. It was just higher than I like to go. I'm a bit of a chicken when it comes to bouldering. Bad knees, bad ankles... I'm sure I can make up some more excuses. I'm a sissy... I can live with it.

My cousin and I wanted to do a bit of climbing together, but sometimes things don't work out the way you hope. Kevin was out climbing the Hulk when I arrived, and as you might expect was a bit tired when he returned. We did a bit of bouldering at the Knobs and then he got called out on a SAR. I told him that if he didn't return the next day I would assume the call was a big deal and I was going to head out.

The next morning I woke up and started to read, eat break fast and finally I packed up for another day of bouldering when I was invited to do some cragging with some of the other SAR team. We ended up at the East Cottage Dome. Here were mostly 10c and harder climbs. I have discovered that I like to fall up climbs. The 10d climbs I definitely still have to work out sections on. I warmed up on a climb called Knobnoxious (5.10d) and the pump in my arms was especially difficult to work through, but I did make it to the top. That day was followed by a jump into the river and cleaning up of camp.

I made the decision to hang out through dinner with the crew from the SAR and to my luck Kevin showed up. We made plans to climb the Regular Route on the Fairview Dome. We woke casually, and watched as the thunder clouds build. We decided to give our climb a try and secretly hoped that other climbers would be chased off by the thunder and that we wouldn't be chased off.

Kevin was super cool, as expected. We got to the climb and I was offered the lead. I have led 5.9 on traditional gear before, but I had yet to do it clean without bailing off and retrying or sagging the rope. I started up the climb and Kevin's words sat on the tip of my thoughts -- Look for good placements before and after a crux and for confidence double up a placement before a crux.

His advice was perfect as I came to the first crux with bad hands and slick feet. The rock in Tuolumne is a mixture of granite crystals and polished rock. I pushed through and was in full sweat. I was thankful for those thunder clouds building around us.

Then I hear this whirwhirwhir like a humming bird passing past your year. "ROCK!" I heard the call after the rock just went past my ear. Never even saw it. I swore about how late the call was made. My head was in climbing though and I would find out once Kevin reached me that no one called rock from above but rather he had called it once he saw it as passed my head. I dropped a piece to protect me and continued up as the rain started a sprinkle on me. The upper crack was already soggy. I dove my fingers back into the crack and excepted it would be mucky.

When I got to the top Thunder sounded to welcome me to my rest place. I had some nuts and three cams left. Only one piece would fit in the rock, so I made a two point belay with my one cam and the belay station on the tree in the rock. Kevin started up the rock.

Kevin moves fast over a 5.9, again climbing in his tennies. In my hurry to get Kevin up though, I failed to backup my belay. I brought him up on a single point of protection, and it wasn't even connected to me. I felt a bit stupid. I felt really stupid. Rock climbing is dangerous and even with thunder and lightening you have to keep your head and double check everything. Once again I failed to be safe. On the bright side I was super confident that the one point I had for Kevin was super safe and I even repelled off that one point myself (which I will tell you about shortly.) Though here is another thought. When you are learning to use a new tool (I was using an auto-locking belay device I'd never used before) you should practice with it on the ground first. Just my $0.02.

So Kevin got to me, and the thunder and lightening was coming on. I told Kevin that if we are going up then I wanted him to lead since he could move faster than me and the rain was my biggest concern on lead. He agreed and started up the second pitch. A loud crack stopped him, and he put a piece of gear to rest on for a moment. We had that discussion -- do we go up, or down? He was confident that we could go up but was worried about getting really wet and miserable. I made the call to go down -- I had already accomplished the clean 5.9 trad lead! I was stoked! The rest of the climb was easier stuff. Down would be okay by me -- and safer.

We setup the repel and I went first (yep that same single point protection I brough Kevin up on.) I didn't get five meters before the hail and rain started on me. My belay and biner were burning hot when I repelled off the end of the rope (as planned) on a nice slab of rock. Kevin followed and I moved off the rock and put on my hiking shoes. Kev did the clean up -- he really is fast at this stuff and does it with all the safety steps required to keep safe.

We ran down the hill and not 30 minutes later the sun was out on our climb and we were laughing that we knew that would be the end result. We ran over to another dome and did a fun 10a to end the day. Not enough climbing for Kevin or me, but the rock isn't going anywhere... well a few chunks are coming down on occasion for sure, but I'll have time to go back and repeat my climbs and pick up some new ones.

I think I need to find another week down here in the Tahoe/Yosemite area. Too much to do, and my lead head is coming along nicely.

Bedtime Stories

2009-07-21T09:21:00.000-07:00

S: Hiya, still there?

me: Yep, for a little bit longer. Aren't you suppose to be asleep?

S: That was the plan... can't sleep, wide awake, tell me a bedtime story. "Christopher's Travels"

me: Okay.

We left Reno behind. The temps were scraping the 100 degree mark

S: I thought you left Seattle behind?

me: Hey... this is my story...

S: Sorry...carry on.

me: The trunk was packed for an over night in the High Sierra's. The windows down, the warm air swarmed through the car... It was Hot. Damn Hot. We stopped in Carson City (That's the capital of Nevada, in case you didn't know) and got gas, and a slushy to help cool off. Then we started our ascent into the mountains around Lake Tahoe. The drive is only 70 miles from Reno, but it takes a couple hours with all the traffic lights... and a celebrity golf match.

We stopped at a hole-in-the-wall Mexican restaurant filled with the local Latino residents in South Lake Tahoe. The food was delicious. We'd be sure to stop again on the way home. Our bellies full of good eats, we continued to Strawberry. The air already cooling, the view along the winding road awes as you approach Lover's Leap. The rock is begging for your attention. We took a left at Strawberry Lodge and went to the camp ground at Lover's Leap. At 7000 feet, it was still in the 90 degree range... the campsites were full and the river looked refreshing. We could look for a place to sleep later.

We stripped to our suits and went for a swim in the refreshing water. After an hour of swimming and sunning we decided to check out the lodge. We were unsure where we'd lay our heads but we found we would have options. And there is an ice cream shop.

The dinning room closed at 8:30, the bar at 10:30. Ice cream sounded good. Three cones, rockie road, strawberry, and almond praline. That would suffice us for our climb... We wanted to climb. We needed to climb. 5:40 PM we racked up and made our way to The Line. A classic 5.9 crack that you could see from the anywhere you could see Lover's Leap. Simply described as "The best climb of its grade, anywhere."

Yep, that's the plan. Jeff took the first lead, Sarah followed, then me.

S: This sounds like a blog.

me: I'm telling you a bedtime story here.

The sun was still blazing hot even as six o'clock ticked past. Jeff flaked the rope and racked up. I put on my harness and bouldered the lower part of the climb. Sarah offered the first lead up to me. "No, thanks. Looks a bit stiff, and the first moves are unprotected for a bit." I put Jeff on belay, we did our checks. Locked my biner and Jeff set off on lead. To me, he moved quickly. Jeff would say he moved slow. We all ticked off the first pitch.

The first pitch was amazing... at one point I yelled "Falling!" as my hands slipped down the rock, my feet perched well and my butt pushing me desperately off the wall. I hooked my finger onto a small edge and got my balance. I should have been dropping but I didn't. I found nice ledge, and took a short break to breath. Sweat soaked my shirt and my face. The pack on my back with water, shoes and other bits was feeling heavy. For the moment, I was wishing we'd left it on the ground. But starting as late as we were, we knew the walk off would be dark.

I continued on, until I was just below Sarah. Sarah wanted the next lead. This should have been a two pitch climb. Sarah climbed until she ran out of slings and had few gear placements left. Getting your lead head on is hard enough with all the gear but when you have to choose to run-out your pitch that takes even more courage. Sarah chose safety and I was grateful for her decision. Ten more minutes and the sun will drop behind the hills. Jeff told Sarah, "We're not going to make dinner at the lodge."

Jeff seconded her climb cleaning the gear and then finished the final 20 meters... With the sun set behind the hills darkness was soon to follow. Jeff cleared the roof and Sarah followed Jeff's final moves. She had just enough day light to see the holds. The plan was to finish the climb in the light and I would climb in the dark from the first pitch. I did after all have the backpack.

Still at the first pitch, the sun set, and my nerves starting to get the better of me, I took a deep breath with eyes closed and calmed myself. I clipped the backpack to a sling on my shoulders to secure it as I removed it and brought it around to my front. Careful to not let anything fall out, I pulled out my headlamp. I removed my helmet, and placed the headlamp on my head. Put the helmet back on. Hit the headlamp power button -- No light.

Mother [bleep]er! This thing is brand new! My headlamp was dead. Maybe it drained the batteries... Son-of-a-... I took off my helmet and the headlamp and returned it to the pack.

S: (sitting on the edge of my seat) What did you do, Chris?

me: I'm getting there... now shut up. I'm making this up as I go you know? Well, I'm writing it up as best I remember, but as I go... you put me on the spot.

Jeff also brought a headlamp. I put it at the bottom of the backpack. Crap. Three pairs of shoes, water, shirts, and "knickknacks" at the bottom of it all. I carefully dug my way to the bottom until I felt what I thought was the "knickknacks." Nope, that was a shirt, try again. Finally, the sack with Jeff's headlamp. This one was much bigger than mine. This one fit over my helmet, so I put the helmet back on, and the headlamp over the helmet.

I hit the power button -- Da-Dah-DA, I had light.

"Chris, On Belay!"

S: Yay!

me: Hey, this story is suppose to put you to sleep... now shut up.

I started to clear the anchor. Jeff pulled the rope taut. "Chris, Climb when Ready!" Jeff called.

I called back "Jeff, Climbing!"

The headlamp was my only source of light. There was no moon tonight. Every handhold, every foot placement required me to shine the light where I hoped to secure myself to the wall. This is an exercise we do in the gym sometimes only not in the dark. I was scared, but I felt safe. I actually cruised up the first 30 meters the headlamp highlighting the chaulked holds.

Only 25 meters to go. The holds became limited. The climb had moved to technical slab climbing with a few pin scars that my finger tips could use to balance me along the way.

And then, the roof. I had watched both Jeff and Sarah clear the roof. They are stronger more experienced climbers than me, and I was feeling nervous. They both had to work their way through thin fingers over the lip.

I moved in, under the rock, the light scanning for the good holds. I found an undercling for my right hand, and I walked my feet up as high as I could. I could see the chaulk that had been left behind in a side pull edge, and I didn't like it. Thin. Shallow. Mossy?

I wasn't sure how I would make it through this roof in the dark by headlamp and then I moved my hand up higher past this ugly hold. It looked like I could actually get my hand to the top with big nice hold.

Sure enough it was huge. I could have done handstands on it. With my left hand on this hold, I let my right go from the undercling and matched it on the ledge. I cake walked the roof.

S: YAY!

me: The climb was done, 10 feet and I was hugging my climbing partners. Feeling happy and elated. We put on our shoes and packed up the rope and other gear. It was now time to get down the mountain.

My headlamp wasn't working... so three people had to walk down to light I was holding. We moved swiftly but cautiously, the rocks and roots could easily cause a problem. Shadows made it difficult to see, so Jeff led, I was second (with the light) and Sarah was behind me.

I would look back to light Sarah's way on occasion and as we started to clear to a smooth path, Sarah tripped.

She rolled her ankle.

We all paused.

Sarah's face told us she was hurt. Tears were on the edge of her eyes. Jeff moved in to protect his girl.

And Sarah stood up.

She would be able to walk. Our pace slowed but was uneventful to the base. We missed the parking lot and ended up in someone's camp. Sarah was hurt so she and Jeff decided we'd grab a room at the Lodge. The room was small... a queen and a twin.

I got the twin.

S: lol

me: Sarah didn't sleep well. I woke to her and Jeff discussing what they could do to make her feel better. Ice, Advil? The foot hadn't swollen at all, but the pain was keeping her awake. We were worried it had broke. The pain caused Sarah to be nauseous and she went in to sleep on the bathroom tile. Did I mention our room didn't have a bathroom so we had a shared bathroom? Yep... Small room.

Jeff had things under control, so I went back to sleep, the zzz's wander through our climb.

Morning came, and I bought breakfast. We dropped Sarah off at the river where she soaked her foot in the cooling waters. Jeff and I headed to the Haystack. A beautiful 5.7. I would get to lead the first pitch this time.

Hold on... I need a moment... it's a long story.

S: Very dramatic

me: I'm good. Okay... here we go.

There were two parties on the wall. The young girl was just leaving the ground as we approached. We chatted a bit and noted that her shoes were clearly too big. She'd left her shoes and borrowed a pair of Katana's from a random guy. I guess he had a rest day.

We said hellos, and she started to climb. Jeff and I farted around until we saw her reach her leader. I racked up, tied in, and did the usual checks. I started the climb feeling confident and moved fairly swiftly. I hit a snag at one point and struggled to get a good placement. I thought I found a better spot so removed the gear, tested the new spot, it was bad, put the placement back in the original spot. I was being stupid.

I continued on. I reached the first ledge, and there was the girl waiting for her lead to start the belay for her. I plugged a piece in to hold me until she cleared the ledge. We chatted a bit. She offered me some water. Her name is Courtney, and with the pressure of people following she decided to not clear a piece of gear. I told her we'd clear it and return it to her at the next ledge. I didn't get my water.

I used the left behind gear and built my anchor to bring Jeff up. He cleared my gear. When he reached me I asked, "How'd I do?"

Jeff said "Well, you pretty much free solo'd that climb."

"Your first four placements were good, but then the next four came out and if you fell, it would have been one hell of a whipper."

S: free solo'd?

me: My confidence was shook... Yeah, free soloing is climbing unprotected, the basic idea is that if I fell I would have taken a very long fall as each of my pieces would have come out of the wall. Not my idea of a good time.

S: Shook because of your placements?

me: Yes.

S: ah

me: Shall I continue?

S: Yes, Pleas do.

me: Thank you.

My gear placements were bad, and Jeff must have thought I was a total idiot and wondered if my anchor was stable. He checked it and was assured it was good, I knew it was because I had replaced the gear Courtney pulled with the same pieces from my rack. Jeff and I swapped the lead and he took Courtney her gear that she left behind.

The second pitch was a good one not to have to be on lead. The roof was intimidating. When I got there, it was not easy either... but the placements were good and I would make it through without much effort. Except what was caused in my head.

I got to Jeff and we laughed that Courtney had to leave another piece behind. Jeff said, "You take this lead." It wasn't a request. He handed me the gear to return, and I racked up the gear.

I was feeling nervous, but as I climbed I decided, "I can take my time, no one is following us, and I can do this." Jeff just nodded to my obvious commentary to myself.

I started my climb. I continued up, and HOLY SHIT IS THAT A SECOND ROOF? I swore. Lots. I've never led through a roof. I swore some more. Lots more.

I continued up until I got to the roof. I placed my gear in the crack, stemmed out to the opposing face, placed my hand thumb down into the crack over the edge, swung my left leg over the edge, and rolled up.

I did it!

I [bleep]ing did it!

And then I walked the remaining way to the top where Billy, Courtney's boyfriend checked over my anchor (I knew it was bomber) because I asked... Just to ensure I wasn't being a dumbass and over confident.

S: I knew you could!

me: Jeff followed up and told me, "You're placements were perfect. Nice job."

S: redeemed

me: I gave Courtney back her gear, and she gave me some water. And back down the mountain again, though much easier in the daylight.

The day got scorching so Jeff and I decided to head back to the river. I ran up to the base of our climb to retrieve the last of our gear. A marmot destroyed my backpack for sunscreen... I loved that pack. This time REI wasn't going to replace it for me. Stupid marmot also ruined my favorite sun screen and that wasn't even in the zippered pocket! Grrr.

We met up with Sarah who had just enough of the river and was starting to get hungry so we headed back to Reno, stopping at our new favorite mexican restaurant before making the final trek. The warmth of the drive home put me to sleep. Reno was still too hot. We grabbed cheap chinese and a movie...

S: How was your movie karma this time?

me: Oh, we rented a movie. I did see the new Harry Potter in the theater and it was good... though people are still retarded in theaters.

All was happy, and we slept in... except for Jeff who had to catch a plane to Seattle for work.

me: My sister just told me that she's in a middle of a tornado warning. I only have a little bit of juice left in my laptop bat.

S: I was gonna tell you about that, but you were telling your story. Hail, high winds, tons of rain. They just cancelled the warning here in Denver

me: Curious. Okay... gotta go... sleep well.

S: Okay, thanks for the story gnight.

me: g'night.

Headlamp update. Turns out that the batteries were still good. For some unknown reason once the back was closed on that particular headlamp it stopped working. Thank you REI for making that return so very easy.

Making it on my own

2009-07-12T11:45:00.000-07:00

I've been a bit lax on doing a blog update. I have been a bit lax on taking pictures too. The month of June was a big month for me. I worked 43 hours and during my free time I was out running, climbing, swimming, hiking and generally enjoying the people I have been meeting.

Feeling a bit jealous that I only worked 43 hours? Don't be. This is part of me making it on my own. I have made a decision to pare down my life so I have more hours to enjoy it. I make a lot less money, I am dependent on myself, I pay my own medical insurances... I worry still about the next day, week, and month will bring.

Although, Like most people I spent a majority of my younger employed years working 50+ hours a week. And in return I got laid off, I suffered personal vendettas, I dealt with sociopaths and narcissists, I got fired for insubordination, I worked 14 hour days 7 days a week with promised rewards I never received, I saw policies made that only impacted me because I wouldn't allow myself to be taken advantage by the business. I've seen and experienced a lot of really bad stuff. Things that no one should have to go through, and yet -- why are you still taking that treatment from your job you "love?"

Wait! Maybe you should be jealous. As my own business owner I have made my own company policies. #1 I will never take advantage of another person whether they are my employee, or my client. #2 I will never let an employee or client take advantage of me. If I don't like the conditions, I get to change them. I can, and need to be reasonable, of course. Yet -- my choices impact me directly. I don't live on the whim of someone who has been made my "boss" and doesn't really have the leadership skills, or personal skills in the first place. On top of that, I get to also make my own Holiday schedule. I get all the banking holidays off. Unless I want to work them. I take the two weeks around the Christmas Holiday off -- does any work really get done at this time? I also decided I get four additional weeks off during the year. The plan -- take a full month off each year (we'll see how that works out.)

Yes, when I take time off, I don't get money. This is true. At the same time -- I get to live a fuller life than I had before. So here I am out making it on my own...

As I said, June was a big month, but July... big in other ways. I started the month with 6 days in Squamish B.C. The first two were bouldering by myself and those I met in the Grand Wall Forest.

I'm not a good boulder. I'm just not. I can do V2, just not most V2's. I can do V1, just not all V1's, and I can do V0. I've attempted a couple V3, and V4's, but really it takes some nerve to fall. On the 5th day out, I was bouldering with my good friends Jason and Rhiannon, and we did some bouldering in an area that doesn't get much attention. I was on what felt like a high problem... My feet were probably 6 feet off the ground or less. I was getting nervous, and Jason just gave me a quick tap on the hip. I realized I wasn't that far. I made the final big move, the one before finessing your way over the top, and I slipped. My hands pulling off moss and pine needles. And I landed safely. I have to go back and complete this problem -- it was day five after all and my arms and elbows were very tired. Still, I tried to work through that final finessing a few more times... I had to walk away defeated -- but I can go back.

I also had one of my best days out climbing ever. I top roped the whole day, but I climbed at my peak. It was day three for me, and I was with Jason and Rhiannon again. We warmed up on a 5.9, then followed that with 10d, 10c, 10c, 10b, 5.7. It doesn't seem like much when I write it down, but at the same time... it was a great day of climbing. I'm still living through those climbs. I'm excited to go back and do them again. I'm excited that I'm doing 10d on top rope outside (it just isn't the same inside.)

The fourth day of climbing was pretty quiet. The air was warm, and I was tired. I did a few climbs 5.7, 5.9, 5.6, and then went swimming. It was refreshing and nice to get the grim off of me.

I'm now preparing for a nice 2.5 week trip for the end of July. I'm heading down to meet some friends in Reno, and to do some climbing in Tahoe. I don't know what I'll climb, but I'm also bringing a bouldering pad. It should be fun. I'll stay there for about a week and then head south to Tuolumne where my cousin is a SAR (Search and Rescue). I got my SuperTopo Toulumne Bouldering guide, a pad, gear (if I have a partner) and just some relaxing in the meadow.

I'm debating if I want to drop down to Red Rocks (what am I thinking, 100 degrees?) and then up through Utah, or out to Denver. I'm not sure. Depends if I get bored or not. If I find a partner for the whole trip that would be nice. Guess I should put the call out.

I hope all you out there are enjoying your summer. I will be bringing my camera along for this next trip and I will take pictures. I will try to put updates along the way...

As my good friend Dave would say, "Peace, Love beads, and Macrame." Maybe he says "Peas, Love, Beads, and Macrame." Hmmm... I'll get back to you on that.

H2snOw

2009-06-10T21:36:00.000-07:00

My weekend started with a Wedding. I actually wasn't invited to the wedding. I was invited to the reception though, and really that is where all the fun is to be had. I was glad to be in attendance. Of course, it was also a bit awkward. Just a year ago my marriage ended, and here my good friend is moving her relationship to the next obvious step. I cannot help but feel a little self pity. My horoscope for Friday said to end it with a romantic kiss. I didn't think it ended with a romantic kiss until someone pointed out "Not for you anyway, but certainly for the bride and groom." All in all, I did get to dance with the bride-- What a great way to start a weekend!

Saturday morning, I casually got out of bed, finished packing the car with my gear and picked up Mack in Silverdale. Mack has become one of my regulars to be outside with and this has been great for moving up my experiences. We left and met up with Jay, a really nice new addition to the crew. Also, he gets props for stamina and solid skiing technique.

We arrived at the base of Mount Adams about 4:30 PM and unloaded the gear to packed up for the hike to 5,600 feet. Only a 1,400 foot gain the first day, but it would give us an easy start right from the tree line, and we wouldn't have to wake up early.

With Mack's Jetboil we heated water and I realized that dehydrated noodles were not enough to sustain. I was the noobie out there and was okay with it. I had water, and cliff bars, and I had a place to sleep warm through the night. I'd be okay. Still, I was thinking that I should have carried more meal like food. I was even offered extras from my cohorts, but I guess I would learn this lesson the hard way.

I was the first to crash out, and there was some talk about pictures of the full moon. The next thing I knew Mack's alarm was going off. The mountain was warm, and I didn't fret about getting dressed. Of course, I did sleep in enough clothing that I was plenty warm. I love my bivy... so nice.

Oatmeal and a Luna bar for breakfast, chugged some tea, and back to skinning up the hill. It became apparent I was going to be the slow one in the group. I trudged along and the thin air took its toll from my body. Mack had ski crampons and so zipped through the frozen crust seemingly without effort. Jay and I got to the first steep slope and when I saw Jay sit to put boot crampons on, I did the same. I was clumbsy, and without technique but I managed and made my first steps up the slope.

At first, it wasn't a big deal, I took one step at a time. Then I hit the steep stuff. It looked like a shear wall too me. It was probably 65 degrees, maybe more steep. I eventually caught up and Mack who already had 45 minutes to rest. He was ready to go again. I trudged along, and soon realized I was going to have to let these guys go ahead, and I would make my way up alone. I would go for Piker's Peak, and they would make the Adam's summit.

Mack and Jay waited for me a second time at the Lunch Table. There questions were thrown at me. Did I have a headache, was I gasping for breath, was I dizzy? No. Kind of, but not really. No. I found that I could take five or ten steps but then I had to rest. That was my progress. I kept going. At this rest, I pushed down a Cliff bar and a sandwich, drank lots of water, put on sunscreen, and decided my skis were to heavy to carry any further. The sun had softened the snow crust just enough that walking in crampons was becoming difficult and the slope was low enough that I could skin again. I made the swap and started to move much quicker up the hill. Mack and Jay were long gone, and I couldn't identify them among the others on the hill.

The last 2K to Piker's Peak seemed very long. The clouds moved in, and visibility was very limited. Rocks on the left and right. It made sense to traverse between those points and keep going up. At one point I saw another guy putting his skis on to take an early ride home. I was tempted to do the same. I kept taking my steps forward. In the clouds people were glissading down from the Piker's and I wouldn't see them until they were just a short bit away. Apparently, Piker's Peak is were most people stopped. Only a handful of people would make the final ascent to Adams Summit. More temptation to send me back down the mountain.

The sun broke and showed My summit to me. Or maybe I just ascended high enough to be above the clouds? It looked so far, and so steep. A rock pile along the way would be my goal. And then another pile of rocks would be the next goal. I continued my traverse on skins until my progress was hindered by the step forward slide down. I plunked my butt into the hill side, and put the crampons back on. My left leg cramped up -- that glissade line was just right there, it would have been so easy to just ride it down.

With my skis on my back, my poles in hand, and crampons on my boots I turned into the hill. I took a big kick, probably with more energy than I had to spare, plunging my toe into the face I was about to climb. Nineteen more times and then I could rest. I would make it my goal to take twenty steps at a time straight up the hill before I could rest.

My guess, I had 300 more steps which meant 15 points I could rest. The sun warmed me enough that I found energy to keep going. People would glissade past me or ski past and say things like "It's worth the pain, you're so close" and "Sweet turns ahead!" All I could do was think about the runners wall. You know where you try to move forward but your body rejects your mental request? I would struggle to actually lift my foot at times. Sweat was freezing in my beanie, and my breath was crystalizing on my glasses. I would agree to rest a little bit longer but I wasn't going to compromise the twenty step goal.

I finally go to that point were you can feel the slope decrease and the walking becomes easy. I think I started to hurry and found that I was there. Or at least, I was at my "there." I would go no further up this mountain. I dropped my pack, pulled off my beanie, loosened my boots, pulled out the puffy to keep what little warmth I had gained, and found a nice rock to lounge in until Mack and Jay would return from the Summit.

I wasn't there more than ten minutes when I ran out of water, and all my food was gone. I watched a guy ski off the summit to another point fifty yards away. I finally realized it was Mack. I waved, and he yelled back to confirm he saw me. I had my feet up relaxing, my knee throbbing. Mack would have to walk back to me. Or he'd have to wait until my body would agree with my brain to get up and move again.

I was glad Mack had arrived so soon, I took some of his water, and some Shot Blocks -- Oh so refreshing! And I took a VitD and two Aleve for my knee. We chatted for a good 30 or 40 minutes before Jay would show up. Jay ate his lunch at the Summit after laying out on his sleeping pad that he carried the whole way.

Jay would take a picture of each of us at Piker's, and then we made our way back down the hill. We'd also gain a forth to our crew, Michael, who just days before had summitted and skied down Mt. Rainier. Our turns were swift, and it was probably 40 minutes of skiing before we got back to camp. The fog along the way was trouble, and we managed to even separate and find our way back together. Michael would leave us to continue down the hill while we rested and packed up our camp. Mack made some tea and we did the final pickup of our things.

Packs full we did the final 1400 feet pretty quickly. I'm not sure how I did it, my legs were so tired, my knee ached. My body just floated through the turns paid out before me. And then dirt. Jay would put his tennies back on and haul his boots and skis on his pack. I decided the pack was heavy enough without my boots, and I think it was a smart choice for me. I made the final trek to the car pretty quickly, and found Mack changing into other clothing. I unlocked the car, and started to remove all the wet stinky clothing. And when Jay arrived -- BEER!

Hydrated, and some gushers to take the edge off it was time to go home. Our trip a success. I had done my first true alpine ascent of a mountain. I didn't make the Summit, but now I have something to look forward to achieving. I did climb from 4,200 feet to 11,600 feet. What an amazing feeling. I want to jump up and brag, even though I know so many people went further, and so many people have achieved the same goal. Oh wait, that is what this blog is about... bragging and to remind me of why I'm doing all of it.

Snow Country for Old Men

2009-05-18T15:44:00.000-07:00

5:50 AM

I woke 10 minutes to 6 o'clock. Let Hana out for a quick potty break, and then fed her. I grabbed the last of my things and put them in the car. My iPod, my lunch, my water and pack, pats for the pup, and a quick good bye to my house guest. My house guest was heading back east to take a test and I left her on the couch as I drove off to meet up with my skiing partners.

6:30 AM

I arrived a few minutes before meeting Mack. The bagel shop was closed. The market was closed. Okay, no breakfast. Mack was a couple minutes late and we quickly moved his gear into my Element. Mack quickly moved into grading papers. That is what he does on trips to climbing or skiing. As far as I know anyway.

7:00 AM

Doug was the first to arrive at the P&R in Purdy. We were running late, but it turns out that Walter wanted to meet even later. He settled on 7:10 AM. Introductions were made. I was the new guy in the group. And I was the youngest. 62, 56, 54, 36. You figure out the combination.

We loaded our gear into Walter's CR-V and drove off to Paradise on Mount Rainier. We stopped along the way at a small bakery. You're likely to miss it if you don't know about it. It was after the turn at Key Bank. I don't remember the path.

Watch Off

We arrived in the parking lot and unloaded. Snow was packed into the cooler so the beers would be cool at the end of the day. Mack, ever the social butterfly, chatted up a number of other skiers. He knew some of these people by name from the Turns All Year forums.

Skis On

We moved pretty fast. Mack and I have a little greeting.

"Are you Good?"

"Yes. Are you slow?"

"No."

We got moving up the ridge pretty quickly. I'd guess maybe 40 minutes to the ridge. At the ridge, Mack took a picture of me in front of the avalanche that slid the day before, or so we guessed. We then did the traverse across the ridge following safety protocols. Mack went first, moving quickly, then Doug, then Walter, and I followed to the ridge leading to Bundy's.

Unskinned

I grabbed some water and had half my PBJ. Mack took the first turns down Bundy's. Doug and Walter moved to make some turns too. I waited until they cleared the hump and made links to Mack's turns. A beautiful set of 8's were left on the slope.

We crossed the stream and were back to skinning our skis. Doug lead the way up the Mazama Ridge. Mack and I quickly took the lead and at the top drank more water and ate more food while we waited. Doug arrived first and Mack quickly put him to the beacon location test. Doug closed his eyes, and Mack and I made marks in the snow and buried one of the beacons. Doug then learned how to use a beacon to locate someone buried in an avalanch. Walter caught up and didn't rest much before we made the slow trek to the Back Bowl. Walter was the only one without a beacon... and he had the car keys. Huh. What were thinking?

Back Bowl

We arrived at the Back Bowl. The snow was pristine. I got nominated to make the first turns. I skied over the left edge of the cornice diving deep under it, and make a few turns before stopping so I could take pictures of Mack going over the top. The pictures will come later, as they are all on Mack's camera. The slide from my turns went on for some time. The cool/scary part of my slide is that it all occurred under the surface. A few pinwheels were seen but the sliding was all auditory for the next 30 seconds. It was Mack's turn next.

The sun was bright, and my polarizing lenses made it difficult to capture Mack, but I got a few successful pictures. Mack crossed the cornice and turned hard quickly under the lip and followed through with several turns as he skied past. I turned and linked his turns once again. We waited for Walter and Doug, but were quick to make our way to the top for a few more runs.

Mack and I moved far right for our second trip down the bowl. Mack moved high into the next ridge, and I took a lower ridge. Mack took the first turns this time, and I followed him making eleven turns in just over 200 feet. Here our attempt to lap the other two was successful, and we stole more clean lines. The bowl was being carved up pretty good. We met at the top of the bowl, I pushed down some couscous and shared in the offer of an orange slice and a swig of Mocha Kalua. I also finished off my water.

3:20 PM

One more set of turns in the Back Bowl was required. Mack and I made our way left of where I took my first turns. The rollover of the hill was steep. Mack took the first turns, and a couple far and high left of us on the ridge hooted and cheered him through his turns. It was my turn again, and I could feel my knees stiffening up. I took two turns, and lost my line. I crossed the Mack's slump and made a turn back, but lost my line again and crossed the slump again. Not a great line, but Mack told me to stay left. I skied down another hump and got some clean turns.

Mack started skiing to me and again there was a cornice/rollover for him to take, I cheered him through it and he made a clean drop. His shit-eating-grin was as wide as the Bowl, and unfortunately unphotographed.

4:20 PM

Fortunately, the trek was short before the final trek down to the road. We skinned a short distance. Mack pulled a Oreo Cookie Poptart out and we shared it. Then I took the lead for the first turns again. It was kind of crazy with trees on one edge, and ridge of snow on the other. I peeled through the turns and just found clean waves to leave in the behind. Across the way we could see our lines on Bundy's. Happiness.

More to come...

All the pictures were on other cameras so I will have to wait for them to come my way. Once I get them, I will update this post.

That's a Problem

2009-04-14T13:44:00.000-07:00

Nope, it just isn't right. My thoughts were not complete. I wasn't willing to say what I wanted to say... After some discussion, and the fact that I'm awake at 4 AM to remove this post -- I will rework my thoughts and find the courage to write clearly what I intended, or find something else to say.

Quick Hit -- Thank you, Access Fund!

2009-03-25T09:24:00.000-07:00

I just wanted to put a thank you out to the Access Fund. The other week I posted a video of the port-a-can's at the Frenchman Coulee Climbing area. When I returned for climbing last weekend, the port-a-cans had been removed. I don't know if my video had any impact, but I'm truly grateful to know that these items are no longer a blight on this climbing area. Of course, I was never certain the Access Fund was the group providing the port-a-cans, it was only my impression, but non-the-less I targeted them so my thanks and appreciation will also target them. I wish that this climbing area had the respect of non-climbers and there was a way to provide a climber/public potty. For now, climbers will just have to carry out their waste. Not a bad practice to get in the habit of doing. Again, Thank you, Access Fund!

Climbing @ Frenchman Coulee

2009-03-05T13:59:00.000-08:00

Tuesday, instead of working, I headed out to Eastern Washington with my friend Laura for a day of climbing. The weather looked horrible. I woke early and made my way to Seattle, the rain was dumping and the thought to carry my ski gear didn't cross my mind. I wanted to climb. I'm going to climb!

I got to Laura's about 7 o'clock and we moved my gear to her car. She made me a quick egg salad sandwich and we were on our way. We didn't even put on music as we talked the whole way across the mountains. The rain didn't stop until about Ellensburg where we could finally see some blue sky breaking through the clouds. Chances of climbing didn't look good but we were still optimistic.

When we arrived we could see the ground was still wet and the rock was not the driest it could be. Oh well, what are are you going to do, the sun is out... lets chill in the rays and wait for the walls to dry. In the camp ground below, an all girls school was on a field trip learning to be empowered... I guess. Lots of squawking for certain. Sorry, I shouldn't make fun of young impressionable girls... yep, lots of squawking.

We talked with a few of their guides and counselors. An amazing group of women... these young girls were in very good hands. They scoped out plans to take over the Feathers climbing area, so we planned to get up a few routes before they finished their belay safety.

The sun dried a couple of routes pretty quickly, so I was on lead for the day. Laura is a more experienced climber than me, but she's been injured and her head isn't ready to take on that challenge... yet. I can feel her just waiting to take the sharp end though.

We started a few short and easy warm up runs. Surprisingly, it wasn't so easy. I sagged the first lead, but I decided to go back and re-climb it clean. It was my first lead since October of last year. I hadn't even lead in the gym since then. I guess it is time to get a gym rope and start practicing. Aside my lack of leading skill, the sun was warming our backs and the walls were drying out more. I sagged a lot this day, but I never totally freaked out and never was out of my skill range. I need to get my head focused for a longer climb. I'll take the sags though. Some would say it wasn't a good climb... I say it was 5.FUN! (Yeah, Laura, I stole that from you...)

Eventually, after a few climbs each and a snack, we made our way over to Sunshine wall. The sun became less pronounced and more clouded. You can see from the picture that the sun was cloud dodging most of the day. At Sunshine Wall we mostly scoped out the climbs and got in one more long pitch up Clip'em or Skip'em. It was probably the hardest 5.8 I have ever done. Not because it wasn't a 5.8, but the bolt placements sucked. Seriously, if I were a braver man, I would have skipped a few bolts. And the top out was naked... I was able to balance my way up, but it was still difficult. Laura thinks she found the hold that I missed that was bomber, and I just made it harder than it needed to be... Big surprise there. Where are my taped holds? Way too much time in the gym.

Back at the car I decided to make a little video. At the Frenchmen Coulee climbing area there are a couple of sani-cans or port-a-potty (what ever you want to call them) with a long history of neglect and abuse. On our visit the cans were in no condition to be used. They clearly hadn't been serviced in a very long time, and had become a place to dump garbage. These cans come as a courtesy of the Access Fund. Or so I am lead to believe. I apologize if I am mistaken and will gladly make a correction both here and in the video below. However, I feel it must be addressed in some form. First, if these cans are provided from any of our beloved climbing communities that we all rely on to help make climbing available, it is important for them to leave a good impression. These toilets are disgusting. Second, if these toilets were once provided as a service and are no longer... it is unacceptable to leave them unattended in the climbing and camping area. Have I mentioned that these toilets are disgusting? Third, and finally, I'm not here to abuse my beloved Access Fund as I love my t-shirt, and other gear they provided when I was given this a gift a couple years ago, and I continue to maintain my membership. I love what you provide, inspire, and help make available. Someone -- PLEASE -- prove me wrong. This is just sad.

[ The Video was removed, and so were these port-a-potties. Thank you to whomever responded and made the change! ]

Hurricane Ridge

2009-02-22T07:12:00.000-08:00

I went to carve my name is the snow. CHRIS WAS HERE!

I woke up at 6:00 AM and printed out a avalanche report, left it on the printer and started to get ready to leave. At 7 o'clock I watch my ride drive past my house. He'd figure out soon enough that he'd have to turn back around. Mack had been here before, turns out that he was still waking up and had missed a couple of turns already along the way. I went out to the road to flag him down, my gear in the driveway, so we could get on our way. Loading up took just a minute, and the drive was quiet.

I poured Mack some coffee he brought in a thermos, and watched out the windows at the white peaks I wanted to drop into and ski. Somewhere before Port Angeles and after Sequim we stopped at an organic grocery store, I picked up a Naked Green Machine to start my morning. Mack grabbed some veggie sandwich, and I took over driving for a short bit.

Mack pulled out the transceiver to give me a quick review from the passenger seat. "On at the car, off at the bar." Easy enough to remember. I began the short portion of the drive to the National Park Gate at Hurricane Ridge. I missed a turn, we had to back track a little. Apparently, a theme for the day... Lots of back tracking.

We arrived and got the prime parking spot. We went into the lodge to sign in for the day, an use the facilities. Got our boots on, backpacks prepped, and transceivers strapped on.

We walked over to the trail and tested the equipment. I skied past Mac, then he skied past me. The transceivers worked. Down the trail we made a few easy turns. A nice opening in the trees -- we turned off the trail. We headed into the trees. Mac first made some turns and came out to a flat area. I cut my turns and followed into the trees. I told Mac on the way up, I don't fall. You know that is a sign your going to fall. We hit our next hill, and Mac took a small spill but was up right away. I followed a similar path and turn over into the snow. Pillow fight! I stepped out of my ski. It didn't take long to get the ski back on and catch up to Mac.

We eventually got caught in a gully that was sluffing in front of us. No way out but down. Some tight turns and eventually we were caught in tree line that was not going to let us through easily. Eventually, after some tree climbing and breaking through the branches, a few final turns led us into a field of some twiggy bushes that made skiing a bit difficult. We decided to stop for a quick break.

We grabbed a quick bite, and tested out the transceivers by burying them in the snow and locating them each in turn. A pretty simple process really. I would hate to have to actually find someone buried though. We put the skins on and made our back up the hill. The initial trekking wasn't too bad, but getting through all the branches wasn't easy. There were a few areas that even the skins wouldn't keep you from sliding backwards.

We eventually got through the tough part and started switchbacks up the open hill. Trekking uphill isn't that exciting, but the views and the exercise is fantastic. I never once thought about the fact I had left the iPod in the car. The air at a mile up is thin for my amphibian lungs, and I quickly realized I needed to manage my breathing. Breathe in with two steps, breathe out with two steps. That seems to work well.

As we approached the top of Steep & Icy we started a dug out for some avalanche testing. Mack started while I peeled his orange and took a few more pictures of the surrounding areas. Okay, Mack did all the work. I simply took pictures and was learning about how it all worked.

We did some avalanche tests to which it was concluded that on the NNE slope at 30 degrees we had CT21Q2 at about 9". We saw natural slab and point-release mischief on the 45 degree slope. A couple skied past us down the lovely face. I trampled the dugout to prevent someone skiing into it.

My knees cramped up and I had to stop and stretch. That was more fun than I could have ever hoped for really. We had a short trip to the hill top where Mack gave me something to put under my tongue that supposedly would help with the leg cramps. I definitely slowed down at this point. Trekking is hard work for sure.

We made our path back to the car for lunch. Again, Mack cruised and even with twenty years on me, he put me to shame. At one point I looked up to see him giving a young asian boy some tips for cross country skiing. Clearly the kid was having some first time fun. The trail was full of people walking out for the views. Many people were snowshoeing and cross country skiing. We ran into a few people along the way that Mack knew. We even saw a small group putting up an igloo and preparing for a night in the snow. Look forward to doing that myself one of these days.

At the lodge we snacked more; I had a Zing Bar. This bar was amazing! I bought it on accident but what a treat. I highly recommend giving these a try. But enough of the plugs for my favorite foods to eat on the trail. I filled up the water jug and looked forward to some additional runs.

We decided to do some last runs on the Lodge Run.

It was a short run of maybe 340 feet. The view was truly beautiful. On one side Cascades and on the other, the Pacific. We did this run a couple of times. I was so slow behind Mack on the trek up after the last run, when I got to the top and asked him if he'd had enough time to have a beer and sober up already?

We packed up and began the drive home. Mack had a swank party to attend, and we had to be back by 5 o'clock. All in all, the trip was a great success. Mack invited me to join him again which I took to be a great compliment. It was a short day and we had lots of fun, but not as many runs as I would have liked. Then again for $12 in gas money you cannot do much better.

What a great day to be in the snow. And now it is raining... bring on the snow!

The Anticipation.

2009-02-20T14:24:00.000-08:00

I'm sitting at my kitchen table. The world before me is forcing me into decisions. I don't want to make a decision. I want to sit here and read my favorite blogs, and listen to my favorite podcasts. There are opportunities before me but they aren't the opportunities I want or need. My needs are screaming at me. It is time to go.

Tomorrow morning, I head up to Hurricane Ridge. Got my shovel, probe, pack, boots, poles, skis and skins... Do I need an avalung? Nah, I'm already borrowing a transceiver. Heard the snow is great. The Ridge just got a another dump of snow. At a mile up I can wave to Mom and family in Denver. Hope I don't freeze... Layer, layer, layer.

No, I won't forget the camera. This time the battery is charged... I better go double check that. I hear the views are great. I cannot remember the last time I was at the Ridge... I don't think I have ever skied there... though it is hard to say. Anyway I look at it, the adventure will be something to remember.

The crew tomorrow all have much more recent backcountry skiing, so we are going to play in the snow pack and do some avalanche tests, and practice with the transceivers. And then it is all skiing. For me, skinning up is a lot like racking up for a climb. There is an anticipation and excitement, a bit of self consciousness, a bit of fear, and a touch of self doubt too. The funny thing about all those things, I know that ultimately I will come out alright. It isn't about an adrenaline rush for me. It is about that moment when my tunes fad from my awareness, and my heartbeat picks up, my thoughts clear and I think about the next turn, the next hold, the next breath. Yeah, I too sometimes forget to breath.

I couldn't sit at the table all day, so I met up with my friend for some gym climbing. The gym has some pretty good climbs up lately. The only problem... I've been training so much that I'm basically repeating the same climbs. It is okay... I'm having fun. I'm smiling. I need to go to bed... Got to get up early. I'll be back here soon with some pictures and a trip report. If you want hear about it.

G'night, and sweet dreams of your next adventure!

Bends it like Beckham

2009-02-13T13:33:00.000-08:00

Well I scored my second goal ever. Indoor soccer just too much fun. I'm surprised how much I enjoy playing. I'm not good by any stretch of the imagination. I'm lucky. Last Tuesday night we, the Burninators, had a game against a team that didn't have enough players show up. I decided I would be a player on the opposing team. This worked out great for me, because I like to spend as much time on the field as possible. That isn't always the case with my regular team as we often will have some nine or more players show up. That means we have to watch so subs get a chance to play. The Burninators did a good job of winning the game, but there was a moment where the team I was on was moving forward down the field and the ball came to me. I was outside the goal box and I heard "shoot it, shoot it!" so I stopped the ball and turned to shoot. Dave, who's a fantastic player and has had lots of experience was being the goalie, was charging at me to stop the shot. I took my shot, and the ball swept past Dave's right side, and curved into the far corner of the goal.

I had to look twice, I was in a bit of shock really. No skill, pure luck. It felt fantastic! My regular team cheered me. Dave was the one tell me to to shoot. That just cracks me up. It was all too cool. And my temporary team was pretty excited with the score as well. The rest of the game was probably the best game I had ever played. As I tired, I started playing defense. This I seemed to do well at too. All the fancy foot work of the more skilled players didn't distract me from ruining the shot on our goal. Dave said I set a new bar and now he expects me to play that good all the time. I guess I better go buy some new shoes... I'm still playing in my street shoes.

I would have never guessed I would like all the running. I used to joke, if you see me running don't wait to find out why. Generally, I don't like to run, but soccer has kind of changed that. Running down the valley feels pretty good. The quads are a bit sore but it doesn't hurt as much, and my knees seem to be doing really well. Maybe all that yoga is paying off.

The days are warming, so got to get my last few ski runs in, and prep for the climbing season. Been in the gym more and have found that the lost of some 25 pounds has made climbing the harder stuff much easier. That is always a bit exciting but I don't want to be a numbers guy. I'd rather climb something easy and have lots of fun than be the best climber. Maybe that is why soccer has been so much fun. We are a bunch of desk jocks and we are all out there to have a good time.

I can hardly wait for the next soccer season to start and this one is not even over yet.

Moving into Life

2009-02-03T12:21:00.000-08:00

I am currently on a short sabbatical from work. A little mental health recovery. I seem to need more these days. Some people might understand, others might tell me to suck it up. Right now? Won't do it. There is something else driving me. Call it a mid-life crisis. I deserve to have one. You've heard my story... it's a fricken country song. I lost my dad, I lost my wife, and my dog ran away. Well, my dog didn't run away, but I have to share her with the ex-wife. I think Hana is worth it.

In the meantime I'm trying to figure out how to make balance of the situation. This weekend was not balanced. It was pure fun and good times. Last Friday, I met up with someone I hadn't seen in 27 years. We had a blast with good conversation, lots of laughs, and a few really bad jokes. The story of Tara and I is kind of weird because quite frankly, I don't remember her. I am glad though to have established a connection with her. She's an amazing person... I like having those type of people around me.

I followed up Friday with Wine Night. A group of friends get together and drink lots of wine and eat good food. It was so much fun, and I brought my good friend Laura as requested. The usual conversations came up and the kid competitions were had and laughed at... All the kids are wonderful, cute, sweet, terrors. I actually find these kid stories to be too hilarious. These people are good loving and caring people. I'm thankful for them every day. Thanks guys for taking good care of me!

Laura and I had plans to go skiing so the following morning we rolled out of my drive way and made our way to Crystal Mountain. Sunday and Monday were days filled with skiing. The unfortunate part was I forgot to charge my camera battery and Laura got just a couple of pictures before the batteries on her camera bailed. The usual hold the camera at arms length and smile. Laura took the one of me above... I think I need to eat a sandwich...

The best part for me was on Sunday, Laura and I put on our skins, plugged in our iPod head phones and trekked up the trail. At some point I took the lead, maybe two miles in or so, and we came into a clearing. Just a bit of snow was falling and I stopped to look back at the view. There was Laura, with her tongue sticking out to catch snowflakes. What-a-dork. This moment though reminds me of how important it is to keep moving into life. Laura has been a bit of a life coach -- though she probably wouldn't agree. I find her to be brave, and often beyond description. That doesn't mean she's "perfect" it just means she is doing what she can to find her way into the life she desires -- and she does it with out stomping on other people to get there. So much learning to be done.

After two days of skiing, I pushed my body a bit further, I went climbing with my friend Amy, and then played soccer later that evening. I pushed my body, and asked it for a bit more. I also respected the limitations, sore muscles, and now am providing rest. I watched a movie. Worked on this blog. Now, I think I'm going to find a burger and some parts to fix a leaky faucet.

Hard work deserves reward. So this is how I'm moving into life. Maybe a bit more selfish or maybe just finding ways to balance what I give of myself. I know that I give without expectations, but when taken advantage of I turn off all support and extras. This brings me to another thought -- I love the work I do.

I have been doing computer things for as long as I could wrap my brain around the concepts. I'd do it even if I wasn't paid. I feel lucky that I have a career that I love. Yet, even as much as I love what I do, I don't want to be tied to the concept of corporate slavery. That seems to be the modus operandi though eh? The -- You do as I say or I will make your life hell -- mentality that I know we've all seen and experienced. I don't share it. I want something more from my corporation. If a corporation is going to have person rights, then they should also have a heart and soul. When the body complains there might be good reason.

So as you move into life remember to say "Thank you," and "You're Welcome." Be appreciative of people who do a bit extra, and don't take advantage of those that give of themselves.

Onward Ho! No -- I'm not calling you a Ho.

10 Best Moments in Life So Far ...

2009-01-04T16:12:00.000-08:00

This post was written because WasatchGirl pondered the question on her way to Arkansas.

In no particular order ...

*) 1973 -- I was born... I don't remember it at all, but I am certain it qualifies as one of the best moments in my life.

*) 5 years ago, approximately, I had dislocated my patella after my dog, Hana, had dived at a ball near my foot. Now this wasn't a great moment, but during the recovery my doctor said that I should get out and hike and climb over uneven terrain. I was staying at a friends in West Seattle while my wife was in her first year of law school. I had picked up Climbing magazine and it had Steph Davis on the cover. I read her article and the next thing I knew I was signing up to take the intro to climbing at REI. Afterwards I was hooked. I bought shoes, harness, and started climbing at the local gym. This changed my life more than I could have ever imagined. My doctor asked me what I was doing for exercises, and when I told him I started rock climbing his jaw just about hit the floor... uneven terrain, not vertical terrain!

*) In 2005 (I think) my mom decided to move to Denver to be near the grandchildren. I had two weeks off from work. After dropping Mom off we continued to Santa Fe, the Grand Canyon, Moab, SLC, Spokane. Camped and climbed. I saw many places I had never seen. My favorite was Moab and the Arches... Experiencing this in person was too amazing. It was a defining moment in my life... I realized that I wanted more out of life than simply working. As if climbing hadn't already convinced me of that, seeing all the National Parks solidified it for me.

*) Joshua Tree 2006 -- A group of friends did a winter trip just before Christmas. We drove all night and when we arrived early in the morning I could barely drive because of the beauty of this place. This was my first real trad experience climbing. I had bought some gear but I didn't know how to use it. I had read the books and had much to learn. I didn't lead even once. I wanted to lead but didn't have courage back then, or the skill. It was a moment though that I realized I could do more and it reaffirmed my desire to work on living for the now.

*) Road Trip 2008 -- Spent two weeks at the beginning of September in City of Rocks, Denver, and Yosemite. It was a difficult time in my life, as my father had passed away, my wife had left me, and I couldn't even cope with my job. I was learning a lot about myself, I was doing my first solo trip ever at 35 years of age. The most interesting part for me was that I realized I'm a really good person. I like who I am, I'm happy with my life despite the hard times. I found my way and realized I wasn't ever lost. I just wasn't looking ahead... I was looking behind me.

*) Maui -- the second and last time I visited Hawaii. I had just been fired for insubordination. I had reported my superior to HR and the next day I was let go. The best part was my wife at the time had just finished finals. We decided to just take off. We lounged on the beached, and I swam with the turtles. We did a luau and enjoyed the sun and sands. Does life get any better than when you drop everything to enjoy life?

*) Kauai -- the first time I ever visited Hawaii. Washington was having one of the greyest years I could ever remember, and everyone was suffering from depression. A decision was made to visit Hawaii. We stayed at a wonderful resort in Poipu and lived resort life for a week. It was really our Honeymoon but by this time we'd been married almost 5 years. Still -- it was memorable and definitely a best moment.

*) 1987 I was ranked in the top ten in the nation as a swimmer. I was 14 years old and one of the best swimmers in the nation. I had coaches struggling to get me to become an Olympic super star. My Freshman and Sophomore years I was set to be a State Champ. In the years that followed my national rankings I learned that I swam because it was fun, not because I was good. I had a situation that required me to make a decision. It was a choice to continue swimming and performing or quit. I quit. My sophomore year I was set to break records, and I quit. I didn't swim my Junior year. I returned later after a coach came and apologized to me... I said I would return but on my conditions. I was a Senior and had made the team in the spirit of fun. We had two relay teams that made state, I stood on the Podium for our 1st place relay. We broke records, and when all was said and done... so was I. Swimming was a very long moment in my life, but definitely one of the best.

*) I graduated from college with a degree in computer science. At the age of 7 I knew I wanted to work with computers. I remember my friends father bringing home an Osborne "portable" computer. This set me in motion to find anyway to make sure I would work with computers. I wasn't a good student. In fact I was a poor student, but I wasn't dumb... I just didn't fit in the education system. I managed to graduate and now work with computers every day, and probably more than I should... but I love them... computers entertain my brain and I enjoy watching the evolution of technology.

*) September 27, 1998 was probably the best moment in my life. I married my girlfriend of two and a half years. Unfortunately it wasn't meant to last, but it is something I look back on fondly. We'd just bought our house -- my girl wanted to be married in her own home -- we had our parents and grandparents and siblings over to the house and we were married in our living room. Our house didn't have furniture or a table, I think we still had my old waterbed and barely enough of anything to fit in a single room. We had a party at a community center that held 99 people. We invited 120 of our closest friends and family, and only about 65 people RSVP'd. All the rules said that expect 60% of those who RSVP. We had to stop counting because more people showed up than expected. We ran out of food and cake, but we had plenty of Champagne!

On to better things...

2008-12-31T10:47:00.001-08:00

Many of you know that this last year and a half has been pretty hard on me. My father died at the end of 2007 which was extremely difficult. My wife of 10 years left me six months later. My divorce was finalized back in October, and Dad's ashes were buried on a ski slope in Colorado over the holiday's. We all suffered economic pressure with high gas prices, huge job losses, and more grey hairs from the lead up to the elections.

I hope you all survived. I think I came out relatively well. I have made some wonderful new friends that I look forward to learning more about. I have connected with some older friends that were there for me when I needed them most. I got to meet my niece and see my family twice in one year. I started swimming and skiing again. I'm in pretty good shape health wise, and all in all ...

Life is Good.
As this new year begins, and we all recover from our late night to ring in the new year, I thought about what I hope to do this year. The usual ideas come to mind... More time climbing, less time working. More time skiing, less time working. More time with friends and family, less time working.

Maybe I am not being clear? We now have a culture of work-aholics and a cash cow culture driving these systems of nothingness. I understand being part of it. I know I like having a house, car, money to buy new climbing and ski gear... but having all that stuff doesn't help if I don't have the time and never get out and enjoy any of it. There is a beautiful world out there and I know without doubt or reservation that living in it is a wonderful experience. And, for many, one that is never tiring.

I hope all of you climbing and ski bums know how lucky you are... And those of you not in the know... A loss of a days wage is nothing compared to never having the experience. If you are someone who is sitting at your desk and wondering how you are going to make ends meet and do your favorite activity I suggest the following (we've all heard this advice before):

1) Eat healthy; if you are going to spend money on something why not on good tasty food?

2) Be OK with stopping. When you have a week of running around and not resting (this includes trying to fit in your fun time) take one day to not run around. Be okay with your mess. You might even find your priorities will shift in what you think you need.

3) and finally an unpaid day outside is always better than a paid day at a desk. You can live without all that kipple piling up in your house... in fact you'll probably be happier without more in general.

On that note, I want to talk about kipple. Kipple was first introduced by Philip K. Dick in his story Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? Kipple is a lot like SPAM. It has a way of building up and left unattended can overwhelm you.

As I clean out my home from 10 years of kipple that built up over my marriage (Thanks to Aunt Judy at Dynamic Order for all the hard work) I feel such relief to have it being purged from my life. I can find things all of the sudden. Putting things away has become easy. And that drawer that is overflowing with kipple... gone. I'm trying to move onto better things... getting rid of dead weight... Seriously, a good start!

Cheers to all! May your 2009 be filled with many highs, few lows, lots of smiles and laughter, and great adventures.

Passion, the new drug of choice

2008-12-16T07:01:00.000-08:00

I don't think I have ever enjoyed this time of year. Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday for certain, but generally I cannot stand the selling of the season. Usually, I would be getting all my climbing gear organized and ready for a trip south to Joshua Tree, or Red Rocks Canyon. This year my family decided it was important to be together. So I'm off to Denver. My sister has made plans for us to ski, and I think I even have plans to get in a little climbing. I'm excited to be with family, see my niece and nephews again, and play in the winter activities that Colorado has to offer.

I'm excited to get back on skis after 14 years. It is something that I enjoyed with my father, but I always hated the ski lift lines, and the cost -- oh my the cost it too high. But this is a sport I was good at doing, and I have fond memories of my dad when I think about skiing. The thing about skiing though -- It was never my passion. It was my fathers, but definitely not mine. You cannot not argue the rush that you get from skiing though -- can you?

Recently, I started to notice something -- everyone is talking about "Living with Passion." Maybe it is because I tweet and you get "followers" who are defining themselves by their jobs -- they have passion for their work. Possibly it is because a friend of mine started a business modeled around the motto "Live Your Passion." Quick Tangent -- Please support Live Your Passion as they really are doing something great to help people live out their dreams. Okay back to the blog. Or maybe the past eight years under such terrible leadership has driven people to realize there has to be something better... anything is better.

Don't get me wrong. I think Passion is wonderful. I feel fortunate that I am a passionate person. Yet, I'm passionate in that traditional way of being fiery and "feeling very strongly about a subject or person" way -- a strong emotion that drives my actions. Now though, the word passion reminds me more of a drug. People cannot wait to get their next hit. It is about the contact high and not the strong emotional feelings -- good or bad. The word "Passion" has become cliche, it is the new religion. Maybe that is my aversion -- has it become a religion?

We all know that many people who play in sports, do extreme activities, even some religious groups, as well as drug users do so for the "now" experience. I have said it many times -- I rock climb because all the other thoughts, worries, problems, etc can all quiet down and I have a very intense rush -- I get to live in the moment and experience all my feelings raw. I would say I'm addicted to climbing. That doesn't happen for me often. I have found even when I swim, ski, or bike ride I have time to think about something other then the immediate moment. Worries of life can still invade me and cause stress. Rock climbing, and now soccer allow me the escape.

So what is my point? Well, the deconstruction of true passion seems to be lost on people right now. People who are running instead of living, who replace meaningful experiences for a momentary rush and call it passion disturb me. I believe I have a passion for climbing... but I realize it is just one facet of my passion for life. I want people around me who are passionate about their life and experiences and recognize that true passion, real passion is fleeting. It isn't in every moment and it doesn't rule your life. Passion, when it is real, is something that provides drive in the moment. Don't let it be something that you need to fulfill your life, to give yourself meaning and happiness... that simply means you are not truly passionate, but rather just addicted.

On Hiatus

2008-12-09T16:10:00.000-08:00

It has been a while since I have had much to say. November was a pretty lame month. It started with a cold, a trip to D.C. during a very exciting time, and a trip back from D.C. that set the cold in for the rest of the month. I got out to hike Crystal Mt. and had coughed a bruise into my rib. The docs advice -- stop coughing.

So the climbing season is really too far away. Either by car or by weather. So I decided it was time to return to skiing (yep, that is consistent with my last entry.) And because I hate ski lifts and lines, I decided to dedicate myself to the backcountry and freeriding. I pulled out the old gear and the boots -- well even wrapped in plastic the mice got into them and nested. Boots are on the list to buy. Pulled out two pairs of skis -- the 205s look good, but my knees cannot handle these straight boards. The smaller pair -- the bindings are turning brown. Okay, well at least my poles are still usable.

So I put in a purchase with Backcountry.com for a pair of skis, randonee bindings, and skins. I was going to get boots too, but I figured I would make sure I get comfortable boots. Since they really are the most important part of comfortable skiing. I will check out the local 2nd Ascent.

Now my fingers are crossed. I tweeted a twit friend that I felt Karma owed me a debt. Funny thing about Karma... you think you deserve one thing and you get something you totally didn't know you needed (good and bad.) Fingers are crossed.

Think snow, rumor has it Friday -- Think Snow!

Gravitational Pull

2008-11-15T06:38:00.000-08:00

I have missed the gravitational pull of rock climbing. Even the gym doesn't seem to get me excited.

Skiing. That is what has been on my mind. I have mentioned that it has been since I was 21 since I last skied. The Holidays are coming quickly and I will be heading East to Denver. I'm excited. I get to see Darcy again and her older brothers Justin and Nicholas. We are planning to do at least one day of skiing. I have never skied anywhere in Colorado, so I'm pretty stoked. I hope I can remember how to ski. I might even have to try snowboarding. I remember the days when snowboarders where banned from the slope. My dad and I would have long conversations about why that was so stupid. My dad didn't like the boarders in the moguls because he felt they created too much of a grove... I never noticed the difference. He still felt they should be allowed on the mountain though.

I'm sitting watching Steep. I'm moved to get out on the rock and hiking in the snow. Now I just need to find the extra dollars to purchase gear that isn't from 1991. I'm going to be an antique out there... but I'm sure it will be fun.

"I love the gravitational pull." That sums up how I feel about life.

Yes, we can...

2008-11-04T21:14:00.000-08:00

Yes, we can. Yes, we can. Yes, we can.

While we breathe we hope... Yes, we can.

Well put Samantha

2008-10-29T09:49:00.000-07:00

I'll let the humor speak for itself.

WTF?

2008-10-10T15:22:00.000-07:00

I just liked this ...

And now for the crazies:

Recharged

2008-10-06T10:56:00.000-07:00

The end of climbing season is approaching quickly. Snow in the North Cascades has already started to fall and soon the passes will be filled with cars topped with skis and boards on their way to a winter bliss. I have not skied in nearly fifteen years. It makes me a bit ashamed really. My father's true love and I ditched it because I got hurt. I dislocated my patella. I didn't even get hurt skiing, but the passion fell to other activities and priorities. I should not really call skiing my passion. It simply wasn't. I had many friends that I could ski with but the only person I enjoyed skiing with was myself, and my dad. I think he was sad that I stopped skiing. I sometimes regret that the last time we skied together I was 21 years old.

Well, I'm determined to ski again, or maybe board. I will get on the slopes at least once this year. You are probably wondering why only once? Dad is sitting on my home office desk, and I think it is time for him to move out of the house. I'll have to figure out how to get my sister out here so we can do this right. My Dad, though he wasn't all present in his head, was all present in his heart. Seem like we should give him a happy place to hang out.

In the meantime I'm recharging. I was suppose to be out climbing this weekend but the weather proved to be less than agreeable. Next weekend I have a family gathering and so I won't likely get out to climb and I am doubting the weather will be good enough for a day trip. The GUGOO's are going to enjoy the Leavenworth Oktoberfest on the 18th so I have plans to go climbing and hopefully meet up for the festivities. Until then recharge.

When I recharge, I like to listen (and re-listen) to one of my favorite pod casts of all time -- The Dirtbag Diaries. Fitz Cahall, the pod author, is a few years younger than myself, but like my cousin Kevin he's in touch with that "something" in the world that fills you up and leaves you whole inside. For someone you've never met that might sound ridiculous to say. I know this though, anyone who thinks/speaks "There's at least a half dozen ways to screw this up -- It sounds perfect," has figured out something that the rest of us are still seeking. Facing the challenges head on is what life is all about. Not only that, finding challenges and overcoming them -- Fitz would say "Trip not possible -- Game On!"

So, Game On! Here's to facing the challenges you are presented, and finding those that will make you a better person.

Sun Kissed and Climber Happy

2008-09-28T08:45:00.000-07:00

Yesterday would have been my ten year anniversary. Originally, the plan was to go to Las Vegas, get a hotel near the Red Rocks Canyon and have "comfortable climbing." I was thinking how awesome that was going to be climbing and being able to get clean afterwards. Nice meals, clean clothes. Yuppie climbing at its best.

Those plan were discussed last year when we were in Red Rocks. Unfortunately for me, life changed in such a way that this never happened. Instead, I met up with some people I had never met before. In fact, people I had barely even talked with before. There are some great places to meetup with other like minded people and gather and have good experiences. I met Beylan and Julie on the Seattle Climbing Meetup really by accident. I wanted to get out climbing, and Beylan had plans to get out and do some climbing at Vantage. I, of course, don't like vantage so quickly suggested Index, Squamish, and Leavenworth. The group quickly grew to about six people planning to climb in Leavenworth. The plan, as the group got larger, fell a part. We were suppose to meet with a couple of other guys from the group (Jason and Brian), but given I have to come from the other side of the Puget Sound, it meant that getting to the P&R at 7 AM was not likely to happen for me. I hope to meet them soon though.

Instead, Beylan, and her friend Julie were going to meet me and my friend Jennifer at the Northgate Park and Ride at 8:30 AM. That hour and a half difference was kind of a big deal. Weekend ferries are a pain, and driving around is just getting too hard some times.

So our little side meet up group made the trek to Leavenworth for a day of climbing. Since we were all new to each other except for Beylan and Julie, we decided that a safe place to climb would be Clam Shell Cave. This is a nice little crag where you can setup top ropes and just get plenty of climbing in quickly. Beylan jumped quick in to her lead -- put on that game face and get your head on -- while Jennifer and I setup a top rope on what was either the easiest 5.8 in the world, or simply not 5.8. I ran up a quick 5.6 trad lead that Beylan had just finished, and encouraged Julie to follow my lead to check out how I placed gear. The lead was so easy I actually only placed a few pieces, but Julie eventually did her first gear lead -- Yeah! Julie!

Beylan and Julie spent time doing some other top ropes, while Jennifer and I went and did the 10b GRTC, and 5.9 Eagles Prey. Jennifer was hot to lead, and I followed. The 10b was interesting and we bounced that a couple times as the crux is getting to the first bolt. My long arms makes it possible to do that, but Jennifer's shorter stature proved quite the challenge. She did awesome and we had lots of laughs at the creative methods for advancing up the climb.

The 5.9, Eagles Prey, was an interesting start as well. The first bolt is an awkward reach to clip and a fall before that is going to hurt. And likely make the hike out suck. Jennifer was ready to lead hard, and so we read the beta for the climb -- it called for gear to one inch and four bolts. Wrong! The gear placement was more like gear to three inches. After a sketchy placement, and a one inch placement at the back of the crack -- my fat arms barely could reach it, I got to the top and the sun had set. It was time to head home.

It was good that the darkness didn't really set in until we reached the car. My head lamp was in the back door and the pine needles covered the protruding stones, which made walking out difficult enough in the low light. I have to remember to put that in my pack for next weekend.

So all-in-all, I made the best of celebrating a moment in time that will never be. We do what we can and we have fun. It was nice to climb with three lovely ladies -- they even let me be a know-it-all without too much harassment. Next weekend is a multi-pitch extravaganza. It will be fun to meet up with more of this crew.

Omens and Book Reviews

2008-09-20T08:14:00.000-07:00

Do you ever have the feeling the world is screaming at you?

Lately, I have been trying to "listen to the world." It has produced some strange results. Recently, I have been dealing with some jealousy issues. I didn't know where it was coming from, but I had to listen to these feelings. I embraced my feelings and quickly came to realize my intuition is very in tune with the world. While what I discovered wasn't good news, it did free me. Or at least loosened its grip on me. I have been paying attention to these omens, even if I wanted to pretend I hadn't noticed.

I am finding the world to be very ironic these days. The thoughts I have about how relationships should be are still pretty concrete, and the world tells me to "hold on" and "There is more to come." Yet, as I look out at everything, I feel like I can almost get the punch line of a very big joke.

Have you ever read The Art of Racing in the Rain? You should. I don't do book reviews but I have to say of all the self help books I have read lately, this not being a self help book is the only one that has highlighted the path I am on. As I write this, my eyes tear because I fell in love with Enzo. I feel like I knew him once. Enzo is our hero. He's a dog. A good, smart, and thoughtful dog. He is my dog -- Hana. He is Danny's companion faithfully.

I started reading this book when I left on my two week road trip. Enzo was my companion because Hana could not join me on this trip. Enzo taught me some very important things, some I have mentioned here before -- "What you manifest is before you." The lesson that seems to be with me today -- when your tires lose control you can over react and crash, or you can go with the uncontrolled slide until something catches to gives you your place back on the road. Yes, you've lost a few places in the line up, but you're still in the race. bark, bark!

Enzo and I were on the same page in Yosemite. I had written in my journal, "I am surrounded by all these people, and yet I'm alone. This Sucks!" I followed it up with the desire to engage my world. I went out and met as many people as I could muster up the courage to approach. I put signs on the message board "Wanted: Climbing Partner!" and I even offered an open ride to anyone wanting to go north on I-5 (no takers by the way). That evening as I read Enzo's story, he tells me about his desire to go out and meet people. He cannot speak well, but he's a good listener. He noted how people don't listen. We interrupt and inject the original story with our own thoughts so that the original story is never told or simply forgotten. I'm afraid I'm a very bad listener. This is my sadness right now. What if I had been a better listener? What if I didn't try to solve everything and just listened? What if -- it gets you know where. Shut up and listen, the race goes on. bark, bark!

Dogs are very intuitive. They know when something is wrong with you. Lately, Hana snuggles so tightly with me I can hardly move. She pulls back the covers and crawls under the sheets with me. She is trying to fill the void that is present. She does a pretty damn good job of it too. I'm paying close attention to Hana. I think she's got something to teach me, if only she had a tongue that could wax eloquently what I need to know. Enzo had the same problems but our dogs do their best. If you want to know FAITH (belief in the absence of proof), get a dog. Hana believes I will learn what I need to learn, despite me proving her right or my efforts to prove her wrong. Enzo tries to tell us that he desires to be a man in his next life. I hope I can be a dog in my next life. I hope I can learn the meaning of unconditional love and provide it to someone who needs it. With a wagging tail, of course.

I give The Art of Racing in the Rain five stars. I plan to read it again. I'm certain there is more for me to get from this story. I think this world is screaming at us all, and if we stop interrupting it, we might learn something important about ourselves. There are omens that are trying to get our attention. And if you are seeing them, you know they have been true and honest. Too bad they cannot all be good. I apologize for the someone random nature of this post. Read the book and you'll probably connect some of the dots.

Peace, love, and friendship.

The Barefoot Rappel

2008-09-14T06:55:00.000-07:00

Rappelling barefoot is an odd sensation. It is very different than climbing barefooted — on rappel your feet are not keeping you in touch with life. You are on your decent and returning back to the world. The high is over, the emotions have calmed and you are probably at your most vulnerable. Your feet can gently wander over the rock touching the different textures, sharp edges, smooth slopers, but really your gear is what you depend on for the descent.

Coming down from "Central Pillar of Frenzy" I slipped off my shoes. I have nago's which turn my feet red. At the top of the climb, as I began my descent, I noticed the color rubbed off my feet and onto the rock. My feet soaked in the temperature of the rock. The morning sun had warmed it but the shade allowed it to cool. I slid my feet over the rock avoiding anything that might cut or hurt. The color rubbed off mostly at the top anchors as I began my rappel. It blended with the rock, but looked somewhat like a tragic accident.

At the second station there was no ledge. A full on hanging rappel. I went first off this station. My feet, without the sticky rubber or ledge to find a perch slipped over the smooth rock. It was difficult to get myself up high enough to ensure my rappel was setup correctly. It was a visual review. Biner through the belay loop. Both ropes correctly through the ATC. Everything locked down. For a backup, I put a quick sling with a locker onto the anchor by the rappel ring. I unhooked everything and made the 140 foot rappel. I had to stop over the edge to remove one line from a tree. The line went to the ground and I followed it down.

My feet landed in stone debris that immediately cut at my feet. I held the ropes as Kevin came down even though he didn't need my support. I wrapped my feet in socks and shoes and began the clean up of gear for our descent back to the car before I headed on my long drive home.

Yosemite is an amazing place. I entered from the East entrance Monday morning. The sky in the meadow was so blue. The air was clean, clear and domes of rock screamed to be climbed. I pulled into a lot and stepped out into the cool morning. I wasn't prepared for the temperature. The signs warning of bears concerned me more though. When I entered there was no ranger to give me the run down, so I walked over to the only other person in the lot. An older man, who looked like he spent most of his days in the park, gave me the list -- no scented items that might attract the bears, no sun screen, shampoo, toothpaste, wet wipes -- of what to remove and put in the bear box. He also gave me the location of the board for finding a partner for the day.

Finding a partner seemed to be elusive, and I decided to head down to the Valley and get a camp site. Camp 4 is an interesting place. You stand in line with your identification, lots of foreigners, and a Ranger who speaks loudly at people who barely understand him. Each person gets the run down -- everything with a scent goes in the bear box. I started to go through my car and found old bbq sauce, some shampoo, more sun screen. It is amazing what you can find in your glove compartment. I didn't mean to bring this all with me either. Oh, and don't forget to take your garbage bag with you.

I picked a site down by the YoSaR (Yosemite Search and Rescue) tents. I knew Kevin and his buddy Gabe were working on the Regular route of Half Dome and would be back at the site in the next day or two. I introduced myself to my camp mates Dom and Bill who where from England, and had finished a trip up El Cap. I wandered down the path to the village and checked things out. On the way back I bouldered and traversed about the rock.

There is an immaturity about this life. Yet at the same time there is a great deal to learn from the world that isn't capitalism, and politics, that isn't selfishness. It leaves you open to the experiences of life, vulnerable (I guess I'll use that word again.) This was my first trip by myself. For being all alone, I was surrounded by people. I made a choice to engage my world and meet the people around me. Heading back into camp I made friends with Libby, a 23 year old red head, who was at the cross roads -- to start a career or to be a dirt bagger. We talked about her adventures to prepare for Big Wall climbing and the decision of starting her career right out of college or to take time to live life. Enni and Pauli showed up a bit later in the evening. The young kids from Finland who were going to aid up Salathe sat and ate dinner with Dom, Bill and myself. My world was filled with new people and stories to share. I wish I could share them all, but they are not my stories to tell.

Tuesday morning a shaggy face popped over my cook stove. Kevin was down for a rest day, and wanted to take me out for some climbing. We ran up "The Nut Cracker" a fantastic 5.8 climb that has a sketchy mantle at the last pitch. The views were amazing for sure. I hope the Japanese guys who took our picture will email me a copy. We finished early and instead of running up more climbs we socialized for a bit. Kevin would be heading back to the dome to prepare for his attempt the next day.

Wednesday I missed a climbing connection. Such is life — it sucked. so I made my way down to the El Cap meadow. There were tons of people staring up at the climbers on the wall. I was quickly identified as one of those crazy types of people and queried about how it all works.

I met some nice young kids -- Tyler, Mike, Joelle, and John. They shared a beer with me and spaced with me. They identified most of the features on the wall, and we enjoyed watching the cluster f*ck on Sycle ledge. Later that afternoon, I wandered back to camp, and they went swimming in the river. I ran into Even, Stephen, Colleen, and Jeff at the slabs and they gave me a top rope on a fun little nameless 5.7 flake. Funny thing, Even and Tyler go to school together. I was meeting friends of friends.

Kevin and Gabe in a surprising success (to them, not me) did the Regular route clean and in short order. Kev looked tired the next morning so I had him teach me aiding and top rope soloing. I did Church Book Tree. A 10b/C1 climb. It was fantastic. I aided, top soloed, and then jugged. The afternoon was done and we were both in need of food.

Thursday evening I met Mash and Molly who moved to the Caribbean and were doing some climbing in the valley. Mash was home, and very enjoyable to meet. I should have gotten his e-mail. Such is life.

Friday, it was time to clear out of camp. I cleaned up and said good by to Tom and Danny, Anni and Pauli, and the rest of the crew. Kev and I met up and ran up the Frenzy. This climb was amazing, and the view of El Cap only improved as you moved up the pitches. On the last two pitches I got my game face on, and I got my very first gear bootie. I plucked a nut placement that came out like it was forgotten not stuck. I think I'm close to figuring out how to climb. Kevin was a great guide and I look forward to climbing with him again -- Maybe this winter after the holidays.

I feel like something profound should be said here. Something that would let you know that everything in the world is going to be alright, or maybe just to let you know I am going to be alright. All I can say is -- "What you manifest is before you" from The Art of Racing in the Rain.

Peace, Love.

I am not Afraid

2008-09-04T07:06:00.000-07:00

That's Right! I said it. I'm not afraid. I can stop and ask for directions! Leaving City of Rocks, I headed out on route 77. The map says that it will go straight through to I-85. Hmmm, for some reason the road ahead said "Dead End" and I don't want to take route X north. I want to go east. Yep, I have to stop at the gas station and find out if I go left or right. I'm told I go left, and hang a right at the sign that points to I-85. Glad I didn't go with my instinct -- I'd have gone right for a very boring drive

The climbing was amazing at City of Rocks. I left the office Friday at five o'clock, and stopped in Tacoma for dinner and some shopping and then put the miles on. I slept at a rest stop somewhere just after Pendleton Oregon, and then finished the drive Saturday Morning. The drive into the Reserve was beautiful.

When I arrived at the campground Jim had just arrived. I introduced myself to him and we made lunch and began to chat. We spent a little time looking at his guide book and then made our way over to "Practice Rock" where I lead a 5.6 and Jim followed me up. We met some nice people who allowed us to top rope their climbs (Thanks Guys who's names I have already forgotten).

Jim and I returned to camp and made dinner and waited for George and Karen to arrive. After more socializing I went to bed and slept through the night. We all woke about the same time and proceeded to make breakfast. Now, some of you may know that I'm not the best packer. I apparently left my oatmeal at home. Standard form for me. I did have a banana and some breakfast bars, but the meal was pretty weak. I had an apple sauce to make it last.

The decision to climb Jackson's Thumb was made and the day looked beautiful. In the picture the Thumb is the short rock spire to the left, in the shadow of the larger "fist."

George and Karen were one pair and Jim and myself the other. Four pitches of over bolted rock was before us, and we were ready to go. Jim and I were going to swap leads, and I started with the first. Jim did the second, with me finishing off the last two leads. As Jim approached me at the third belay he asked "are you pissing?" I responded with a no. "It must be raining then." Yep, the thunder clouds to the north were starting their rumblings and we had one more pitch to go. Jim decided I would move faster, so I took the lead and cruised to the top. We made a quick rappel and scrambled down to our lunch and packs. The storm seemed to be just passing us and I was thinking we might get another climb in. Boom! The rain started to fall pretty hard. The crew behind Jim and I decided to descend the climb unfinished, and the crew on the next climb over asked how far it was from the top. Flash Boom! Okay, everybody off the rock!

I often joke, if you see me running you have to wonder what is chasing me. I moved down that mountain at a jog. The wind had picked up and what felt like hail was rain pelts sped up by the wind. We got to the car soaked and drove back to camp. I threw my stuff in my car and began to strip out of my cold wet clothing, put dry clothing on, and crawl into the bag and warm up. Seemed like a good time to read a book.

The storm passed and George wanted to do more climbing. Me too, Jim three. We made our way over to Rain Dancer, which was a two pitch climb -5.7, 5.5. George did the lead, Jim followed, and I enjoyed the leisure of the climb. We got to the top and I setup the rappel. Last up, last down. Dang the wind was cold and I was shivering. My bag was starting to sound very good again.

Karen met us at the end of the trail -- she'd started a fire and had some veggies to share with us all. It was another pleasant evening, and I was worn so I left for bed. I was out. Apparently, the wind had kept the other three awake. I was OUT. The morning was cold, shady and didn't bode well for climbing. I sat in my bag reading. After lunch I did some wandering and photography.

We went out to Box Top rock but the climbs seemed inactive, and the rock crumbly, and it was decided to wander over to Stripe Rock. Here George tried to convince me that the 10b was a 5.7. It just didn't feel right. I got us on the right climb but by the time George and Jim got to the first belay, it was time to head back to camp. Oh well. I got some bouldering earlier...I'd have to wait for tomorrow.

Elephant Rock has about ten perfect lines on it. Give or take. George wanted to do one of the 5.8's but they were already covered with climbers. "There's a four star 5.7 -- that's a classic in this guide." Yep, that's the line, and no one is on it. George and Karen will do the first lead, Jim and I will do the second lead. We only had enough gear so I had an easy lead and no gear placements. The lead was fantastic. George and I lowered Karen and Jim off the rock and then did the two rope rappel. I wrapped up the gear -- it was time to get to Denver.

City of Rocks -- I'll be back to climb your beautiful granite.

Rained Out

2008-08-25T09:20:00.001-07:00

I decided I needed a weekend of rock climbing and so made plans to head up to Squamish. I had some friends that were up there all week and it was a wet week. I had my fingers crossed that I'd get clear weather. The initial reports were looking good, but the word was that Sunday was 100% chance of rain. Against the odds I made my way to the rock with a new climbing partner, George. We arrived Friday afternoon and proceeded to do a few runs up Burger and Fries. It was short lived as I was hungry and wanting to find a place to camp.

We had a nice evening with the crew, and by 11:30 we decided to go to sleep. We woke to a grey sky and no rain. Good news for us, so George and I headed to the Apron. As I was gearing up my cell rang. I thought -- this is the call. My sister was having a baby! It was my mom telling me that the kid already came -- No name had been decided yet. George and I proceeded to hunt down our climb. It was a bit of a trek but we got to our climb and no one was on it. Whew.

We did Banana Peel, a eight pitch 5.7 climb, with some great places you could actually run up the rock. We followed that up with Memorial Crack (5.9) and a rappel into the pond. Our beer was earned and we headed back to camp after dinner.

I was feeling pretty tired after all the climbing and so lay down to rest a bit. I'm not sure how long I was out, but George came over, and apologized for waking me -- "Oh, no, I wasn't asleep," I responded as I wiped the drool from my cheek.

Sunday just couldn't hold out for us. It was full down pour. George and I packed up and hurried to wait in a two hour boarder line. That sucked, but the rest of the ride home was fantastic. Now that the new niece is here, I have plans to head out again. Road Trip 2008. I'm going it solo....wish me luck.

Oblivious

2008-07-21T10:55:00.000-07:00

One of the things I love about myself is that I can be completely oblivious. This can certainly be to my detriment but at the same time I can stop what I'm doing strike up a conversation with Micah Dash and not even realize I'm talking to one of the great climbers of modern times. I talked with Micah and his climbing buddy, who's name escapes me, about what great climbs we'd just been doing.

Turns out that my Squamish weekend was during the Mountain Festival and many of the greats were around this weekend. I had come up take pictures of just random climbers. It was good that I found my friends though as I forgot to charge my camera battery. Although, I suppose it would have been cool to take pictures of some of these great climbers. Instead I got sleepy morning people.

I didn't get my usual round of pictures. I was enjoying the time with my friends, and the climbing. I started my weekend off climbing pretty ambitious and lead a 5.9 on trad. I got a bit freaked at the crux, and let Jason finish it for me, but I lowered off my gear and did it on top rope. More projects to add to the list.

I have a place to stay when I visit Mexico though now. Rhi's friend and two daughters were up visiting and I got to join in on the climbing fun with them. Lalo is from Oaxaca and has graciously invited me to be a guest. I think given my desire to live out some of my dreams lately that I am going to find a way down there and make that happen.

Mexico. Yep, I better study up my español.

Finding Balance

2008-07-12T09:23:00.000-07:00

I'm sitting in my office cube. It is Saturday and I am making up hours of work that I have missed over the last couple of weeks. As I try to get work accomplished for clients, put in my 40 hour work week, and get outside with friends I am finding that 24 hours is not enough. At least not if I want to sleep.

I'm sitting in my office working and listening to The Dirtbag Diaries. All this podcast does is make me want to run. Quit my job, find homes for the cats and dog, sell the car, and hop on my bike. Peddle my way to where ever it is I'm hoping to be...

When I was in high school and looking to go off to college, I couldn't get into any local colleges. I didn't have good SAT scores, and my grades were average, and my mom made too much money for me to be on Financial Aid. Being a student was never something I did well, so I was in no hurry to go back to school. I took about nine months off. I worked a full time job at an arcade store in the local mall, and I dreamed about hoping on my bike and heading east. Screw going west, I wanted something different.

I got on my bike and started to ride. Ten miles out I got scared. I didn't have any food, I didn't have much water, and my bike bags didn't even include a sleeping bag or a tent. I ended up at REI in Redmond. I went East just not very far. I guess technically I went North East. I shopped around REI and started my list. I needed a light weight tent, a good small bag, spare tires and tubes, a pump, bigger bags, a head lamp, bike lamp...hey how much is that helmet?

Yeah, back then we didn't wear a helmet when we rode, but I figured if I'm going to be on highways I better have something. My grandfather bought my first helmet, my Dad got me a seat bag. I dreamed about the bike bags. I dreamed about putting up a tent on the side roads and making myself a place to sleep. Oh, I need food? Hmmm, yeah, I'm going to need front and rear bike bags. Maybe a handle bar bag. I dreamed of where I would end up during the winter.

I figured I would take a job at a diner, or anywhere that would take me. I imagined that I would become part of this town in Somewhere America, and then one day early in the morning, it would still be cold, I would ride my bike out of town down the middle of the main street. I would have touched this town and broke its heart. The town would talk about that nice boy who rode his bike in looking all ragged and in need of a good scrubbing. They would talk about how it was strange how I wanted to talk to everyone and find out their story, but I cleaned up nicely.

My goal was to ride across the country. I wanted to see New England, Prince Edward Island. I intended to ride my bike south along the Atlantic coast. Spring break in Florida -- isn't that the dream? I would then work my way back west. Eventually, I would come home. I'd have a little bit of money left in my bank account because my savings would have remained untouched. I would know how to make an amazing drink, or cook a wonderful meal, maybe I would have a story to tell or two.

That was the dream. The reality was Clinton came into office and all the sudden I had the opportunity to go to college. I got my Associates, and followed that with my Bachelors. I found other interests to occupy my attention. The dream never died though. I have always dreamed of packing up the car, the dog, the wife, and just driving until I needed to sleep. I've done this a couple times. Coming back to work is never the same though. Each time I do get those glimpses of the dream I find it harder to live in the grind.

So where is the balance? I wonder now if there is a way to live life the way I dream it and in the world of salaried employment. Even my friends who seem to live life so vicariously seem bound by the system. They worry about where their head will lay each night, will they be able to afford rent, can they afford gas, food, and everything we all worry about day to day. Sure they could camp in the mountains, or beaches but it is a hard life. It feels good for a couple weeks, but eventually you want a shower, you need a shower. Clean clothes would be nice too. A warm meal that wasn't cooked on a camp stove. And even if you do stay out more than two weeks there are people in this world that actually count on you.

I think the time is fast approaching where I'm going to make my decision. My desire to see this world and enjoy it daily is bubbling over. I want to stop when I see something beautiful and just take it in. Etch it in my mind. I'm tired of having to be some place for someone else. I want to be any place, but that place needs to be of my choosing. At least for a little while.

First, I need to find that courage.

Thoughts and Prayers

2008-07-07T13:27:00.000-07:00

My young high school intern, Jacob Patterson, was hurt this weekend while mountain climbing. He fell and is in serious condition at the Harbor View ICU.

My thoughts and prayers go out to him and his family.

Kayaking in Liberty Bay

2008-07-06T12:11:00.000-07:00

It seems to be a weekend of Independence themes. It has been a fantastic weekend. Not all good, but nothing bad. Some emotional stuff -- letting go of "things." All in all, a marvelous weekend. Even Hana has had a good time.

Today, my new friend Ahmis and myself rented kayaks in the Poulsbo Marina, and spent an hour paddling around Liberty Bay. The start of our kayaking there was a big Blue Heron on a log boom. As we paddled past we noticed a baby seal and not far away was mamma, and she popped up just as we were cruising by gawking at the baby. A perfect start to our adventure. Ahmis and I paddled down past the marina and did a bit of chit-chat. Circled around and on the way back got to watch a sea plane land. It was coming right towards us but was plenty far away that we just got to watch and experience the moment.

On the way back to returning the kayaks, baby and mama seal visited us again. And we had a great end to a perfect start.

Now, I'm on craigslist looking for a new kayak. Or rather a new-to-me used kayak. I think I'm hooked. This is what I've always wanted. To spend my time, kayaking, camping, climbing, and generally outside. I guess sometimes we give up some of those dreams for something different. I don't think you have to give up anything, you just have to know what your priorities are and take the time to make them happen.

Enjoy life.

Ka Boom!

2008-07-04T23:50:00.000-07:00

I spent the evening with some good friends, and was introduced to some really wonderful people. Lisa & Marty, and Jennifer and Tony (I think I got that right) were fantastic dinner companions and their children were fantastic. Mark and I took the kayak out on the water for a bit, and then had a little photo contest. Here are my pictures. Enjoy!

Hope you had a happy and safe 4th of July!

Live Free or Die!

2008-07-04T13:02:00.000-07:00

I love that saying. Happy Independence Day! Today, is a very emotional day for me. I have a friend coming over to help me liberate myself from years of comic books, magazines, books, and other trinkets. I wrote to another friend, Erin, that "Independence Day for me has been -- liberating. I am someone who holds tremendous sentimental value to things that don't matter. I'm purging them. I'm not forgetting them, but removing them." I continued with, "Part of me is tremendously scared. Seriously -- Scared. I don't really know or understand why but I'm imaging shedding my old self. I know there is someone great inside me and it is not defined by comic books, magazines, or trinkets...."

This got me to thinking -- I need to blog this! What an amazing day! I'm liberating myself from a box that I put myself in. Why was I so afraid to step out and see that there are other boxes, and bigger boxes to step into (and hopefully out of.) For years a dear friend of mine would tell me how she would love to just live out of her car. She'd be so happy to only have the stuff that fit in the back of her wagon. I would tell her that the cat box would be really stinky in the car. But Why! I didn't listen to that sooner I can only guess. I suppose that is something one learns from living on their own though. I have never in my life lived alone. I have always had a roommate, or family. Even now, I have the company of two cats and my dog. Today, I'm asking myself "Are You Living it?" and I am hoping if not, that I will be soon.

My dearest aunt has lived life very simply, and I'm striving to let go of the things in my life that no longer matter and cling on to what she can teach me. The things that truly matter to me -- I hope to find them again once I've cleared out all this junk.

Happy 4th of July!

Que Sera, Sera

2008-07-02T14:17:00.000-07:00

I'm really bummed.

My opportunities for long weekends of climbing have been totally thwarted. My Squamish trip didn't happen and circumstances for the Toulumne trip left me at work with lots of clients to look after.

Anyone out there want to go climbing?

Chrispy Fried Climber

2008-06-28T08:56:00.000-07:00

I decided to take Friday off and work Saturday instead. I joined a couple of friends for an easy day at North Bend Exit 38. We ran into Tom, my Tuesday climbing partner at the gym, and we all lead a number of climbs.

The morning started with me parking my car at the P&R and grabbing a bus for a $1.25 to the Ferry. At which point, I walked on to the ferry and got relax and socialize with the daily commuters. Riding the ferry during commute time is always a wonderful experience. People watch can be entertaining, but I met a nice gentalman that was having a vicarious moment through me. How cool is that -- I usually think I'm living vicariously through my friends.

I walked off the boat and met my friends Bryan, my soon to be roommate, and Katie. I also made a new friend -- Bort. Bort is Bryan's dog and she, yes -- she, is a wonderfully sweet dog that will make Hana thrilled to have a friend.

So we headed off to the rock with Katie driving. Now, if you have ever had me as a passanger in your car, you know I'm a bad back seat driver. Thank god Bort was there so ever time I check for cars during a lane change I could use her as my excuse -- "Good girl, you're so sweet, yes you are..." Katie was a bit distracted as a driver -- but she wasn't a bad driver. We safely arrived at our destination after Katie saying, "Oh, that's our exit." Cutting across a lane of traffic and to the off ramp. Good times.

The hike into 38 is not bad at all. In fact, I think it was like 10 minutes. We spent the day at "We Did Rock" climbing the 5.9's a 10c and finally a 5.10a. With all of us leading we did pretty good. I was going to be lazy on the 3rd 5.9, and Katie laughed at me, and pulled the rope. Such a good friend. I lead the final 5.9 but not clean. There is this one section where you have to high step right above the bolt, and it just feels precarious. It isn't hard at all, just a mental work out. I wasn't prepared to lead the 10c, but I did top rope it and got it clean. I was excited, even though the only hard part was the first two bolts. It moved into a staircase after the second bolt and was just a nice easy climb.

I didn't get on the final 5.10a. We just didn't have the time for me to get on it and get back in time for Bryan. Yes, it was Bryan's fault. He had to work -- He hasn't quite figured out the rock climbing vs. responsibility quotent yet. Oh well. I will work him over in time.

After returning Bryan I went about unpacking and getting my evening together. I had a nice dinner with my aunt, and then I picked up Hana from her visit with Tango, her play buddy for the day. I got home, and while I knew I had gotten too much sun, the backs of my legs were so sore. I pulled out a couple of ice packs and aloe to cool the burn. I got a by fried -- Hey, that is rock climbing. It was worth it, and I look forward to more.

I had a good day.

Are you living your life with Passion?

2008-06-20T09:35:00.000-07:00

I have heard the phrase "Live your life with Passion" and always thought -- "Don't be stupid, that is just a catch phrase!" In fact, I have often referred to this idea as a "catch phrase." To me, Passion is something you make -- like romance. It is a mental exercise and in the end if you enjoyed yourself and dream of the next moment, or even the last moment, often then you are living that life of passion. That being said -- We all should live life passionately, romantically, happy and fulfilling.

My friend Josh started a site with a few buddies called "Are You Living It?" I have been enjoying the site because a number of the contributors seem to understand the idea of passion. They understand that not every day is passionate, but to always have the thoughts in the back of the mind -- I cannot wait to...

The goal of the site is to help you live what you are passionate about in life. They actually sell clothing and other "Live your Passion" gear and donate 10% to help people get on to their adventure. I wonder if they'd help me bike the Greek Isles? Oooh, the possibilities!.

In the site's Who We Are section they say "In today’s world, it’s easy for people to forget about the things that make them happy." Indeed. In today's world we often forget that happiness is internal, and we choose happiness. So why not seek it often, why not dredge up those old dreams and live them out? If you are in that rut where you wake up and all you want to do stay in bed avoiding the day -- then get out of bed, shower, put on your clothes (or not), and do something that you dream about doing. Anything different. It won't kill you -- I hope it won't kill you.

As I wait for the week of climbing in Squamish to approach I can feel my passion bubbling over. I want to share it with everyone -- even though they don't get it. I am surfing You Tube for climbing videos, and reading all my favorite climbing blogs. Work be damned!

Well -- yeah, I need to get to work...damn.

Pursuing Greater Highs

2008-06-17T21:17:00.001-07:00

As you probably know -- climbing centers me. All the chatter in my head stops. Recently, I have acquired a Tuesday night climbing partner. Tom and I are about the same age, and about the same build, and about the same climbing strength. We usually swap belays and we challenge each other to climb harder and harder.

Today, Tom and I did our first 10b lead climbs in the gym. We have both climbed the route on top rope, and it was clear we needed to lead this thing. I started the climb and fell at the fourth clip. It took three tries to work through the clip and by the time I figured it out, I was too tired to finish the fifth clip. I think I can get this clean on the next couple tries. Tom had the advantage of learning from my efforts, and also had to take but managed to work his way to the anchors.

It was a nice afternoon of climbing. We started by doing some low warm up climbs. I started by doing three lead runs on an easy 5.8, and a fourth on an easy 5.9. I then belayed for Tom, and repeated his 5.10a, 5.8 lead combo. Tom took a couple slab top ropes while I rested before I headed for the 10b. After my failed 10b attempt I finished up with a simple 5.9 and top roped a 10b, and two 5.8 slabs.

It is clear I'm now going to need elbow icing, but it was worth it and I'm so thrilled I attempted a 10b on lead. I'm very excited with my new found confidence in my climbing. I think 10c's are soon to follow.

Now -- the count down to my week in Squamish begins.

Ways to be Entertained

2008-06-13T15:32:00.001-07:00

If you ever get bored or just need to make a change, I highly recommend finding a tool that will be your guide. I found this great game. It is called PhotoGamer. You are provided three words and your goal is to take pictures of any combination of the words. You then upload your pictures...I don't know if you win anything except maybe some praise if your picture is enjoyed. (I'll post up my pictures -- I've taken them but have yet to submit my results.)

I have to upgrade my flickr account though so I have more pictures I can post online.

Lately, I have also been living my life day by day with Astrology -- yes, as a game. I don't take it too seriously, but I do find it interesting and surprisingly apt for once in my life. A few days back my horoscope advised me to take the day "hour by hour." For no particular reason I chose to do it -- live the day, hour-by-hour. I had a fantastic day. Even the power going out wasn't a big deal. I went out for dinner, and when I got home I put on the candles and enjoyed my evening. What a wonderful game!

Today, the Chinese Astrology crossed my path. I was born in 1973. The Year of the Ox. I did a little Yahoo! on the Ox and was surprised how it read. Probably doesn't mean much to you. To me -- it is apropos. Not sure how I'm going to implement the information...maybe just acknowledge that it vaguely resembles something in my life. Maybe you can think of a good way to turn this into a more interesting game?

My Horoscope for the last several days have been interesting as I mentioned. Today's read "... Trust yourself -- even if you make a mistake, it will be one that will teach you an important lesson. It'll also help you avoid that same pitfall next time. Independent thinking is not only healthy -- it is wise!"

I find it interesting yet I don't fully subscribe to the information. Too much hocus pocus, and interpretation required. Yet, you have to admit that is good advice -- Trust yourself; Think Independently; Learn. Not all my decisions are good, but I'm not afraid to make them. I look forward to what it will bring, and where it will take me. And it can be fun when you make it positive.

There are just a few things you can do to entertain yourself when you need a pick-me-up.

Starting anew.

2008-06-12T17:16:00.000-07:00

Welcome.

I'm glad you have decided to continue reading my blog on my climbing adventures and other events of my life. As you might have guessed, my previous life has come to an end. It is a sad thing, but it is the for the best and it is time to begin the newest chapters in my life.

So let me begin this new life with a new blog. Again, welcome friends and family.

I am preparing for the next climbing trip at the end of June. This involves counting gear and reading the guide books. I intend to spend an entire week in Squamish with friends, and I'm looking forward to doing some leads on gear. It has been a long time since I've lead on gear but my fear of leading seems to be gone with my old life. I'm taking on harder climbs without much fear. I seem to trust myself more and my confidence is allowing me to climb harder than before.

I've been improving my strength and patience while climbing. This has been a real trial as I have less time now than ever before. The summer will be filled with people coming to help prepare my home for sale. So many decisions have to be made these days. I'm thinking I will have to head out in the Fall and visit my family in Denver which when I do I plan to climb the Flatirons. Of course, I will have to buy more gear. My old life left me missing so many pieces. I think I'll need to do a bit of research on what the weather is like in the Fall for the irons.

I have many goals too for this summer. I'm hoping to also get to the City of Rocks. Maybe I will do this when I head to Denver? I will need to organize some friends for this process. I will need to make some new friends to be climbing partners with...which isn't easy. Most climbers my age have been climbing for almost five to ten years, and if they are my age, they have families they won't want to leave for a week. But the adventure begins whether I want it to or not.

Many more crunches, and hanging on the boards will be required.

So with that, you have read the first blog of many more to come. New lives are difficult but in the immortal worlds of Grover from Sesame Street -- "Don't forget to breath -- In and Out!"